Cause for celebration

Press, 13 September 1988, Page 10

Cause for celebration

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE I

DEUTZ, of Champagne, France, and Montana Wines, Ltd, New Zealand, are pleased to announce the birth at their Marlborough Vineyards, on August 25, 1988, of their new Methode Champenoise, blended' by Monsieur Andre Lallier, chairman of Champagne Deutz. The new arrival will be released in 1991. In these enlightened days it is quite Often the custom for fathers to be present at the birth of a child, but it is seldom that anyone outside the immediate family attends such an event. At the Hotel Regent in Auckland, however, there was quite a gathering of surrogate godparents to congratulate the proud father, Andre Lallier, on the birth of Champagne Deutz. Contrary to normal christenings, there was no infant to be seen, to be drooled over, to compare with its parents, or to be the recipient of gifts. It will not be seen for the first three years of its life. It will be carefully guarded and monitored, with every aspect of its development being checked to ensure that its progress goes according to plan, culminating in the release of a superb champagne. In view of the history of the Grand Marque House of Champagne Deutz, it is a wonder that the child ever saw the light of day. Founded in 1838 by the 29-year-old Guillaume Deutz, it has survived two world wars, the Champagne riots of 1911, and the big Depression of the 19305, and the then head

of the house, Jean Lallier, having been taken prisoner of war in 1940. Jean Lallier escaped in 1941 and, from 1945 to 1955, restructuring was undertaken, increasing the vineyard from 16 to 35 hectares. More vineyards have since been added until today a large part of the annual production of 800,000 bottles is exported to 30 countries. Andre Lallier, the fifth generation president of the company, is an individualist. He could succumb to the temptation of mergers to become a large house and turn towards mass production, but this would be totally incompatible with the history and wish to remain an independent house. It would be even more incompatible with the image of quality which the company now enjoys. For diversification he relies on his ability to sell his know-how, and to direct expansion overseas.

As a result, the expertise which goes into the production of Champagne Deutz is now employed in California, West Germany, South Korea, Argentina, and now New Zealand.

South Korea offered, perhaps, the greatest chal-

lenge. The company of Dae-Sun produces annually 100 million 250 ml bottles of shogu, a spirit made from tapioca, the Korean equivalent of Japanese sake.

When Andre Lallier went to Pusan in 1983 to sign the agreement, he found that the Korean language did not possess one word to do with wine, viticulture, or wine making. But the Koreans are serious and determined business people. With the help of the House of Deutz, a 16 hectare experimental vineyard was planted to determine the grape varieties most suitable to the climate and soil, followed by another 45 hectares and a visit to Ay to learn how to make and care for the wine.

The first bottling of 140,000 was achieved in 1987. The total aim is four million bottles as the Koreans discover the gourmet pleasures of the West.

The architect of it all, Mr Chui Ho Noh, will soon be a famous man in Korea when the wine is released in time for the Olympic Games. The wine may be Korean, but the vines and the savoir-faire

will have the signature of Deutz. With all of this in mind, we sampled a special cuyee to celebrate the one hundred and fiftieth birthday of the House of Deutz, a delightfully dry aperitif wine, creamy in texture and of unbelievable balance. One glass was simply not enough. From there we proceeded for lunch to the Papillon, the Listener/ Montana Best Restaurant award winner for the best New Zealand wine list.

The appetiser of scallops, lightly poached in a Pernod-centred bouillon, served on a tropical fruit flavoured cream with mango segments, was perfectly accompanied by Champagne Deutz Blanc de Blanc 1982, a dry and delicate aperitif wine. The entree of parcels of marinated pork in wonton wrappers, deep fried and served with a cashew sauce, went extremely well with Penfolds 1986 Chardonnay. From 100 per cent Hawke’s Bay grapes, it was of characteristic bouquet, fully fruited, and with a very good oak balance.

A choice of mains of breast of chicken with shitake mushrooms and wild rice, or roulade of John Dory filled with a fresh salmon mousse, steamed and rested on a Deutz sauce (who could resist the John Dory?) was served with Champagne Deutz Cuvee William 1982.

The description of a winemaker's champagne produced only from exceptional vintages was no exaggeration. If this is a winemaker’s favourite tip-

pie, I am green with envy. We also sampled Penfolds 1987 fume blanc, a well-produced, woodmatured sauvignon blanc, light, and dry, and palate cleansing. With the cheeseboard went another Deutz champagne, a non-vintage brut,

which simply accentuated the expertise possessed by these specialists in an individual style which is the hallmark of the house. Not to leave anything to chance, we also had Penfolds Hawke’s Bay cabernet sauvignon 1986. Of an appealing ruby colour, it

had equal appeal in the balance of fruit and oak with a nice lift of tannin in the finish. Never have I enjoyed a christening feast as much. Is it too much to expect another celebration when the child is removed from its post-natal robes?