N.Z.’s wine scene offers plenty of interest

Press, 16 August 1988, Page 16

N.Z.’s wine scene offers plenty of interest

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE

Whoever it was said that there is nothing new under the sun obviously had nothing to do with winemaking. Although, after 5000 years, it can hardly be claimed that wine is new, there is always something new on the wine scene.

As a “for instance,” take the new Penfolds sparkling white, Hyland,

which, having been launched 127 years after the wedding, must surely qualify for an entry in Mr Guinness’ book of renown.

Georgina Penfold married Thomas Hyland in Australia in 1861 at a time when the Penfolds wine venture was in financial difficulty, a state which seems to have a familiar ring in the history of winemaking.

During the next 20 years they not only lifted the company out of its problems but established it as a household name in Australia, so much so that their two grandsons paid tribute to their forebears by changing their name to Penfold Hyland. Penfolds Hyland is a methode champenoise wine, that is, it has been produced according to the time-honoured French champagne method of fermentation in the bottle. It is made from the traditional champagne grapes, mainly pinot noir and Chardonnay.

The colour is an attractive lemon gold, and the method ensures a steady stream of fine tingling bubbles. It is delicate in texture with a smooth fruitiness on the palate, although a hint of sweetness in the finish belies the “brut” on the label. Penfolds have found a niche for Hyland in the price bracket between the standard bubblies and the higher priced champagnes.

It is an appealing wine, particularly for those who wouldlike to advance from the “cheapies” to a higher quality without paying an arm for the privilege. It is well worth a try. New also is a classy Chardonnay from St Helena. Pale gold, and with attractive, clear lights in the glass, the wine displays skilful handling of ripe fruit and subdued oak with the distinctive buttery flavour of

a well produced Chardonnay.

Although ’B7, it is very drinkable right now but will well repay cellaring for a year or so. The winemaker, Mark Rattray, has done a good job on this estate-bottled wine. It is exciting to know that, with this evidence before us, Canterburj' could very well emerge as a premium Chardonnay area. Winery stocks are now depleted, but there are still reasonable quantities at retail level at a competitive price.

But that is not all. Mark Rattray has also come up with a very good cabernet sauvignon. The ’B7 Port Hills claret, estate-grown, is full and rich with a smooth finish, and gives the lie to reports that 1987 was not a good vintage year. Although not the first Canterbury cabernet, it is certainly the best I have tasted. What I like about both

of these wines is the restrained use of oak allowing the fruit to assert itself to the full.

We may, I am told, look forward to new labels from St Helena. It will be a good thing. The lady on the present label looks rather forlorn, and has always reminded me of the Lady of Shalott. I hasten to offer the suggestion that, if she is to be depicted in the new labelling, she should be made to look a little happier.

New products keep on making their appearance consequent to the unavailability of bag-in-box reds. The flagship Montana Fairhall River claret is at present out of production owing to scarcity of base wine and will not reappear until about November. The gate is therefore open for others to have a chip at the market, which they have not been slow to do. It is pleasing to note that the gap is not being filled with any old stuff which happens to be handy. Mission Claret, for instance, is a blend of the classical cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes. It is reasonable to assume that the wine is the same quality as that being marketed in 750 ml bottles.

Although the three litre bag-in-box is priced at around the $2O-odd mark, it equates to about $5,80

per 750 m! which is good value in anyone’s language. Our trans-Tasman cousins have also come to the party with a two litre box of Coolabah shiraz, retailing at around $l6, or $6 for 750m1. Shiraz is the grape which imparts that distinctive Aussie characteristic. This one, from South Australia, is attractively presented in gloss finish board bearing a reproduction of a hand-coloured, late nineteenth century lithograph. It portrays — no, not a billabong, but eucalyptus trees and sheep. There is also the gentle reminder to “enjoy wine in moderation,” a nice touch. The very latest in “things new” is Bakano claret. “Bakano!” I hear the old hands cry. “That went out with the Ark!” So it did — the old Bakano. But this is the new Bakano, a blend of South Australian and

Hawke’s Bay cabernet sauvignon and the first time such a blend has been marketed in New Zealand. It came about as the result of co-operation between Cloudy Bay and Corbans, firstly with sauvignon blanc which was produced in Marlborough and shipped to Australia for blending with the local product. This exercise was so successful that it was decided to reverse the process by blending South Australian cabernet sauvignon with the New Zealand wine. The result is a rich, fuli-bodied, dry claret of clean bouquet, pleasantly fruity and with a palate cleansing touch of tannin in the finish. This Australasian blend is marketed in 750 ml bottles and three litre boxes.

Nothing new,under the sun? Don’t believe it. There is always something new.