Sizing up summer shapes

Press, 4 August 1987, Page 11 (Supplement)

Sizing up summer shapes

By

PAULA RYAN

WHAT MATTERS newswise for summer is shape. A-lines, trapeze shapes, dirndls and Princess lines are all new this season. They balance fit and flare with fullness. There is a more constructed feel to styling and fabrics. The greater part of summer’s styling centre’s around body-consciousness and bareness.

This year, bareness takes on a whole new life. It will be everywhere, day and night, from every designer and at every price level. Most noticeably it will appear in simple tops under jackets or jackets worn on their own and in the equally revealing summer dresses cut away like halter 1950 s dress or shaped bustier tops.

The world’s classics have influenced summer both culturally and historically. Feminine French influences are greatly seen in the shorter skirts with waisted peplum jackets often without collars, or short dresses with double skirts, for instance a short straight skirt seen under a cheeky ruffled skirt. Italy’s approach to simplicity of beautiful cut, comfortable styling, and exquisite use of fabric is evident in jackets trousers and skirts... simple and easy, slim without appearing too tight. Latin America influences the use of exotic printed fabrics. This look encom-

passes fiesta time with dance ruffles, bare back treatments, waisted and body conscious, and carnival colours. These colours convey the heat of the southern sun.

The British colonies, a spillover from the "Out of Africa” last looks summer sees soft shades of naturals mixed with cream and white in dresses and separates, all waisted with brown, tan, or black classic men’s styled belts.

The countryside has also delivered a retro approach to romantic looks in soft pastels and lots of white.

Summer can actually be broken down into several looks. —

Savvy city: This is smart Parisian savvy with a couture edge. Lines are split between the short, straight, and tubular and the flaring trapeze or A shapes. Lengths contrast like the 7/8 over 8/8. There is also a heyday couture feel of 1950 s shift dresses and suits. Only the best fabrics are used like silk/linen herringbone tweeds, silky knits, and viscose/ linen blends. A light colour opalette is based on the naturals. Red navy, black, and white are used also.

Pres du corps: A sharp slightly architectural silhouette of simple shapes. It means... longer slimmer jackets, short era-pire-waisted tubular dresses (skirt or pinafore styles), snug suits based on a classic jacket buttoned lightly over the hip or a micro jacket paired with high waisted pants. In knits it means slim tunic layers. Retro safari: Kilimanjaro, “Out of Africa,” “Africa Queen" are the starting points for the look which takes colonial elegance to the city. In spite of premature overkill in African jungle prints this look will carry over to next summer diffused through all levels, lines start with a structured safari jacket, skirts stick to a straight, or flare like shirtdresses. Shorts and instant update. Colours are khakibased, plus ecru the new basic. Watch out for the sophisticated treatment from designers — Safari with a Deco twist recoloured in Deco pastels.

Retro sport: A new treatment is given to sporty classics. They are based on the 1920 s with easy

cardigans, long or short skirts and shorts, wide leg pants and blazers. Played out in navy and white. White romantic:

The best looks I feel in romantics come through in crisp white cottons. The babydoll approach advocates full, flouncy pieces like smocks, full skirts, and dresses and lingerie-based items decorated prettily with smocking, shirring, tiny buttons and lots of ruffle and lacy trim. Holiday:

These looks will appear in store a little later, towards Christmas. The light-hearted high summer picks up the knee length dirndl. Shape is in easy shift dresses. There are tight or full options. High waisted pants and bolero jackets, shorts, jersey knits, stripes come into play with sarong effects for beach and party. Fabrics are light with duo colour prints. Party:

For delivery around the same time is a whole new selection of Christmas or summer party wear. Some are simple, draped and resort, others are frothy in nets, taffeta, satin and very dressy. Lengths range from above the knee to long.