Making the most of makeup

Press, 4 February 1987, Page 17

Making the most of makeup

in vogue

Paula Ryan

It’s one thing to have drawers full of makeup ... it’s another thing if it just sits there.

How many of you buy new makeup items only to discover they are not the exact colour? Well, bring them out and use them. They will work if mixed with your favourite shades and give a more interesting look. Here are a few tips of maximising your makeup. • Apply foundation with a ' moist sponge rather than with your fingers. Let it sit for 30 seconds, then gently work the foundation into your skin, using a clean powder brush.

• Face powder should be at least one shade lighter than your foundation. The best results from loose powder are created by boldly dabbing on the powder with a puff. You’ll look like a flour-bag. Then brush off all excess with a powder brush. The result is matt • After using eyeliner, smudge the colour so it’s not too harsh.

• Apply cream or powde r eyeshadow with a wet brush to prevent caking or creasing. Blend colours carefully.

• The best eyeshadow results are created by using shades other than those of your eyes. Example: blue eyes — try plum and grape shades. • Summer humidity often makes cream rouge bleed, so apply a little powder rouge over it to set the colour for lasting ability. • For a finishing touch, brush translucent powder across the jawline, down across the nose and on the forehead. Then go over the rouge on cheekbones.

• Hot weather can make lipstick bleed. Prevention: use a lip liner and a lipstick brush over lips

that have a face foundation firstly applied... and dried.

• Care taken in applying moisturizer will determine how smoothly the rest of your makeup goes on. Always work it well in.

• When you wear a hat, apply more' dramatic eyes, lips and cheeks for balance.

• When wearing your hair back don’t forget foundation on your ears and sides of your neck. • A few changes in makeup can give you a psychological boost

• Add a couple of new items to your collection once or twice a year whether you need them or not If you are feeling low, a new lipstick can make your day pleasant again. . • To set an eye-pencil makeup, apply shadow over pencil with liner brush. .

• My favourite eyeliner trick: Line the eye with a skinny black line (all the way round). Then apply eye shadow on top of it with a narrow brush. This brings out the eye and prevents old fashioned hard liner lines. If you have watery-looking eyes or thin eyelashes, it is an especially effective trick. • Co-ordinate the depth of colour on your face to the balance of colour in your. clothes. If clothes are in hot . vibrant hues, your face need? more of the same, otherwise the clothes will wear you. If you are wearing pastels, don’t makeup a bright face — instead, go soft • For many, combinations of shadows sold in one case are a waste of money unless you intend .to use them. If history spells to you that you only use one shade, only buy shades as singles. You can then have more but will use all.

• Mix eye colours to create interesting looks, best mixed on the eye in a layered effect. That way you can ' have softer shades moving higher towards brow, keeping deeper layers closer to eye. Try navy over light brown or lilac. • Pencils look great mixed as eyeliner effects; for example, a dark pink lip liner under a blue eye pencil creates an excellent purple shade. Great for how and winter. • The best way to assess a new eye makeup look is to, do one eye the "old" way and one the dew way. Which one looks better? • Darker eye-shadow colours Will always do more for your eyes then very pale ones. • Mascara on both upper and lower lashes is not a must for every woman. Some women find the dark shadow cast by mascara under the eyes is unattractive. Make up one eye with and one without and see which looks better.

• If you don’t have sensitive eyes try the kind of mascara with fibres which attach to your lashes and make them look longer and fuller.

• If you are 40 plus and your eyelids are crepey avoid very pearlised shadows which only exaggerated the crepey effect Go for matt shades with minimum of sheen.

• During summer go for sheerer foundation bases. Use sparingly and let your natural glow show through. The bathroom mirror won’t show it but hit the outdoors and you can easily look over-made-up in New Zealand’s intense light