From stony ground can come some of our best wines

Press, 14 October 1986, Page 8

From stony ground can come some of our best wines

Maurice Hunters

GRAPEVINE

The ability of grape vines to flourish in ground which is totally unsuited to the cultivation of other crops is one of the wonders of nature.

Not only do they flourish, but they produce fruit far superior to that from vines grown in many fertile soils. The best of the world famous champagnes are made from grapes grown in almost pure chalk; in Portugal, noted for its roses, the schist in which the vines are grown is sometimes so difficult to work that small explosive charges have to be used at planting; in Bordeaux, the home of the world’s finest clarets, and in the Rhinegau, where the luscious white wines of Germany are produced, the soil is stony and forbidding. It was therefore considered to be no handicap when Corbans laid out their Stoneleigh (stony paddocks) vineyard on the original course of the Wairau river in Marlborough in 1980. The vines were planted

in arid, infertile land which broke the hearts of early settlers struggling to establish grazing pastures there.

Although four wines have this year been re-

leased for the first time under the Stoneleigh label, Corbans clocked up gold awards for their 1985 Marlborough sauvignon blanc, 1983 Marlborough sauvignon blanc, and their T 983 Marlborough Rhine riesling in the 1985 national competition. All eyes will be on Stoneleigh wines in the 1986 competition next month. In the meantime, it is worth noting the comments from across the Tasman when three of the releases were reviewed at a tasting of New Zealand wines organised by “Winestate” magazine in Adelaide in September. From a maximum of five stars, the 1985 Stoneleigh sauvignon blanc was rated three star with the comment, “Aromatic, grassy sauvignon fruit is obvious on the bouquet and palate of this style.

The fruit flavours dominate in the mouth, leaving a sweet grape flavour that lingers long after swallowing. There is an excellent balance between fruit and acid, with the wine leaving the mouth clean and fresh. Ready to drink now.”

The Stoneleigh Rhine riesling 1985 also rated three stars with the judges’ comments, “At-

tractive botrytis apricot aroma lifts from the bouquet, giving complexity and character. The palate offers rich fruit flavour which is sweet to the taste, with the wine finishing with a lingering riesling character.

Give this wine some time in the bottle, and it will provide rich reward,” praise indeed from winemakers who have always prided themselves on their ability with Rhine riesling. But it was the Stoneleigh Chardonnay 1985

which impressed most of all. The only one of nine to achieve five star rating, it was proclaimed by the panel as, .“The classic New Zealand style, this wine has a perfect balance of fruit and oak, with rich, lingering flavours that leave the mouth watering. An excellent balance has been struck between the grape and wood — while neither dominate, both are pungent and distinctive. Although offering excellent flavours now, the panel agreed there is still a

future for this style, so buy a few and keep some in the cellar — although it is hard to imagine this wine can improve on what it already offers.” Not reviewed by the panel but well worthy of mention is the Stoneleigh cabernet sauvignon 1984. Harvested in early May, with a high natural sugar level, and consequently relatively high alcohol of 12.5 per cent, this is a wine of deep red colour, and attractively pungent bouquet The ripe fruit is well balanced by its sojourn in both Nevers and American oak for seven months. Its lightly astringent finish lingers, and it has all the earmarks of a wine which will continue to improve to a velvety smoothness..

On the local front John Thom, of Larcombe Estate, is gearing himself up for the new season’s releases later this month. At the time of writing the wines had only just been bottled and, with John’s typical caution, he preferred not to open any for sampling until they had settled down, an attitude with which no one could disagree. The range this year is greatly extended on that of 1985. In addition to the “bread and butter’.’ breidecker, which found

much favour: last year, there will be a gewurztraminer, a pinot gris, a Rhine riesling and the first Larcombe red, pinot noir. All are from estate grown grapes, and all have been proved to respond well to Canterbury conditions. As well as winemaking, the Thoms have been busy extending the tasting room and, providing that negotiations with the local authorities have been going according to plan, it is hoped that light foods will be able to be provided this summer, with barbecuing facilities to follow in due course.

At A'mberley Estate Jeremy Prater is also preparing for the coming season, and plans to release his wines in early November.

Bottling is in the process of being completed and he will have to offer a dry' riesling sylyaner, light and fruity with low acid and a Rhine riesling which . Jeremy v describes as beirig very full with plenty of capacity for development. He. hopes to follow these in December or January with a Chardonnay) the fruit for which was obtained from Derek Quigley’s Amberley vineyard, the release date being 'dictated by the availability of oak barrels for maturation.