N.Z. beats Europe's best

Press, 2 September 1986, Page 16

N.Z. beats Europe's best

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE

If success in overseas competitions counts for anything in promoting New Zealand wines, there is no doubt that we are making progress. The most notable wines in recent months must surely be those of Hunter’s Marlborough vineyard at the 1986 International Wine and Spirit competition in Lon-

don which shook the European winemakers to their traditional foundations.

To them, it was undoubtedly sheer presumption for a small, unknown winemaker from a small, almost unknown country to eclipse the best that they could produce.

I am reminded of an incident some years ago when a first-year pupil at an intermediate school, was subjected to a form of initiation ceremony by two second-year boys. Instead of submitting mildly, the new boy turned on his tormentors and, with a bit of the old one-two, one-two, let them know that he was no pushover. From a safe distance they yelled, “You can’t do that, Bunter. You’re too new!” . In this instance the new boy was judged by an impressive panel of European judges, headed by the world’s best known wine writer, Hugh Johnston. Collectively they rated Hunter’s 1985 fume blanc as the best New Zealand wine they had ever tasted.

Hugh Johnston also ranked Hunter’s 1985 Chardonnay on the scale of a premier cru burgundy and offered to buy the lot. Great stuff! Ernie Hunter’s chest is now several sizes larger, and justly so, although it would be nice to see greater recognition given to his winemaker. Almuth Lorenz, a young German woman whose dedication

and expertise puts her at the top of the list of women winemakers in New Zealand. The release dates for both wines, originally announced for August, has now been put back to September. Although we are all very happy for Ernie, there is a danger that the blaze of publicity overshadowed other world class wines in the same competition, six of which also won gold awards. Among these Cooks were prominent with two wines which Kerry Hitchcock has always done well, Hawke’s Bay cabernet sauvignon ’B3 and Chardonnay ’B3. Montana were well represented with two which they also have handled exceptionally well in the past, p/bin cabernet sauvignon ’B2 and p/bin pinotage ’B2. It was particularly pleasing to see a wine from Weingut Seifried’s Nelson vineyard, late vintage Rhine riesling ’B3, right up there among the big names with a gold, and I was also delighted to note a gold going to Villa Maria’s reserve gewurztraminer ’B5.

The sun is over the yardarm and I am sipping a glass of this delicious wine as I write. Of pronounced golden colour, the distinctive spicey bouquet warns the taste buds to sit up and take notice. Although dry, the balance of this wine is such that each mouthful is a delight, rich, fully fruited

and lingering. It ‘is one of three’ releases of Villa Maria reserve wines, all of which deserve special mention. The 1983 reserve cabernet sauvignon, with two gold and two silver awards to its credit, is a full, rich red from the outstanding Hawke’s Bay 1983 vintage. After 12 months in Nevers oak it was given further bottle maturation which has resulted in a smooth, velvety wine of excellent balance. The 1984 reserve Chardonnay, from Gisborne grapes, also matured in Nevers oak which, at this stage is rather prominent, nevertheless has all the qualities to develop into a big full wine of excellent fruit and complexity for those prepared to wait — a great one to cellar. Special, clutter-free labelling makes these wines easy to identify on the shelf. Although they are for national distribution, quantities are limited. Being reserve wines they will be produced only when the character and quality are considered to be exceptional.

Returning to the competition results, the smaller vineyards also scored well with silvers. Villa Maria sauvignon blanc ’B4 was there alongside Weingut Seifried sauvignon blanc ’B5, Selaks Chardonnay ’B5 and Selaks sauvignon blanc/ semilion ’B5. It did not occur to me

when I began writing this column but, on reviewing the results of this particular competition, and taking into account what the Australians are saying about our sauvignon blanc wines, I have suddenly realised that critics are no longer talking about our expertise with muller thurgau, as they were a year or so ago. They are saying the same things, but about sauvignon blanc.

There is nothing wrong with a good muller thurgau but, if we can do better with sauvignon blanc, it is to be hoped that those producers who accepted the Government subsidy to rip out vines have replanted with the grape which is going to do us the most good. But overseas recognition is not confined to wine competitions. On the local front, Leon Havill of the Rangiora venture of Havill’s Mazer Mead Company, is quietly proud of a modest export effort in sending small quantities of his product to Switzerland.

Contact was made with a young Swiss who was hoping to settle in New Zealand but was unable to because of immigration problems. So he did the next best thing and arranged to have what he considered to be one of the most pleasant features of the country made available back home.

Some difficulties with labelling were encountered but were resolved by printing the label in French, Italian and German. From very small beginnings shipments have gradually increased to the most recent consignment of 100 cases. Retail outlets have now been developed and it will be pleasing for mead fans to know that, when travelling to Switzerland, they may be able to indulge in their favourite beverage.