Merivale Steakhouse 190 Papanui Road Phone 557-382 Licensed and 8.Y.0.

Press, 18 December 1985, Page 34

Merivale Steakhouse 190 Papanui Road Phone 557-382 Licensed and 8.Y.0.

(By

TONY PETRE)

Enthusiasts for steak are prepared to go a long way for a good one, and the magic word “steakhouse” is likely to draw them from near and far. Those so drawn to the Merivale Steakhouse are unlikely to

go away disappointed.

The restaurant was formerly the Village Gate Restaurant, and now specialises in steaks and salad. It is also possible to have salad only, as a main course. The restaurant (two levels) has friendly service and a comfortable and re-

laxed atmosphere. It is a pleasant place to dine. One can start with a selection of the usual fruit juices ($1.10), continue with soup ($2.85) and then select an entree of sole fillet ($4.65), shrimp cocktail ($4.65), or pate ($4.45). A visit to the well-stocked salad bar will cost $2.25 if you plan to have the salad with your main course, or $5.75 if you plan to have salad as a main course. The latter price seems a little high, although it must be said that the selection of salad vegetables was excellent, and the freshness and presentation of these was beyond reproach.

One can, if one wishes, adopt the excellent American practice of eating salad before the main course arrives. Not only does this fill the time taken to prepare the main course, but it takes the edge off fearsome appetites, and makes the steak to follow even more enjoyable. But if you prefer to alternate mouthfuls of hot steak and potato with mouthfuls of cold salad, then you can do that, too. One of our party decided to sample the shrimp cocktail. Opinions on this dish vary, but for those who do not consider it a culinary cliche, let it be reported that the Merivale Steak-

house version had more shrimp than some, and a better flavour than most. One diner chose ham steak — the second cheapest main on the menu at $7.75, ahead of steak sandwich and mushroom sauce at $6.75. Her companions considered it a brave choice, as the usual New Zealand ham steak is a sad, dry, tasteless and weary thing. None of these epithets could be applied to the Merivale Steakhouse version, which was adequately thick, moist, tender, and with excellent flavour.

Another by-passed the rib-eye ($9.85) in favour of the peppered porterhouse, which proved to be a trifle on the thin side, but of excellent flavour. Being thin, the request for medium rare produced a steak that was only just pink in the middle. Rare, or very rare, would be a better choice.

The problem, of course, is that one is never quite sure what the term “rare” means to a specific chef. It can vary from definitely overdone, and barely pink, to almost raw. The Merivale seemed to get it about right — the garlic ribeye ($9.85) I ordered, very rare, was just that. It was also delightfully tender, again a little on the thin side for my preference, but otherwise generous in size.

The flavour was outstanding, and the garlic so generous that I was declared socially unacceptable for a good 10 hours after the meal. In short, one of the best steaks I have had for a long time.

The remaining diner bypassed the fillet ($11.85), and the lamb chops ($9.35) in favour of the pork chops. Two large chops were served, nicely done, again excellently flavoured, and not too fat. They were certainly a substantial meal. All dishes came with a

large baked potato, which was served with either butter or sour cream, to choice. Three of us decided on a side-dish of mushrooms ($2.15) with our steak, and these sliced buttons were excellent, simmered to the point of their best flavour and texture, and not overcooked. Three of us enjoyed salad, the consumer of the pork chops found himself brought to a halt without it. He missed something that was well worth having. Initially we decided that discretion dictated giving up the idea of dessert, but a break for conversation, and the mouthwatering description of the Dessert of the Day (profiteroles, $2.85) by the waitress, convinced us that the risk was worth

taking. Indeed it was. One chose apple pie (also $2.85) instead, and was not disappointed. It was a fine, healthy wedge of pie, and the lightly spiced flavour and crisp pastry lifted it above the average. The profiteroles were a good, and lighter, end to a substantial meal.

The bill, excluding the wine, but including a cup of coffee, came to less than $2O apiece. All also voted that a return visit should definitely be scheduled. That, after all, is the best summary of all.