Fashion as art Auckland art gallery hosts stylish show

Press, 4 December 1985, Page 17

Fashion as art Auckland art gallery hosts stylish show

In vogue

Paula Ryan

If you want to strengthen the ties between fashion and art, an art gallery is as good a place as any to do it.

In Auckland recently, the City Art Gallery played host to a selected group including. fashion designers and their friends, invited to sip champagne and view ‘'Chance and Change,” a controversial exhibition celebrating a century of the avant-garde, while at the same time showing off their latest creations. Public relations consultant Vicky Holder who, with, the gallery’s exhibition administrator, Priscilla Thompson, organised the event, said it was the first time fashion and art had been mixed in this way. Given the theme of the exhibition, and the elements of change in fashion, it seemed appropriate to bring the two together.

Like the artists, representing different periods in history, different countries and various art movements, the designers displayed a diversity of talent.

But unlike the artists, whose names appeared beside their work, the creators of the walking works of art were not always so easily identified. Unless you happened to be familiar with

the individual style of a particular designer it was a bit tricky sorting out who was wearing what label. Those participating were Adrienne Winkelmann, Street Life, Zephyr, Megan Douglas, of Obscure Desire, the couturier, Colin Cole, and a newcomer, Doris de Pont. Men’s wear was provided by Monsoon and Parachute, the hairstyling by Eton Crop. The Colin Cole contingent was one of the largest there. Colin himself was every inch the aesthete, resplendent in black velvet doublet and hose, buckled shoes, and

lace jabot, surrounded by a bevy of glamorous women and stylish young men. Colin’s latest silhouette — featuring the peg-shaped skirt, shades of a poiret — was much in evidence. His draped shapes of satin, jersey, and hand-dyed silk were offset by enormous picture-hats and head-hug-ging helmets adorned with flowers, veiling, and great bursts of tulle. “Miss Auckland,” Joanna Johns, glittered in green and gold. The model agency owner, Doreen Morrison, swathed in black and white, brought back memories of the Ascot scene in ‘My Fair Lady’. New lady in town, Doris de Pont, a cool blonde wearing one of her own designs, impressed with her unusual interpretation of the coatdress, buttoned back and front and teamed with narrow pants and a tied bratop. Her choice of fabric

was a crisp cotton in startling yellow and white. Far removed from the world of haute couture, but definitely within the realms of art, were the outre creations of Zephyr. This workshop of young designers see fashion not as a mass market concept, but as a form of artistic expression. One of their number, Margaret Graham, actually trod the Elam (art school) path. Bouquets to Zephyr for their handpainted shirts and trailing coats, their funky jewellery and fantasy makeup, and a delightfully urban Daisy Mae, whose blue knit tatters were sassed up with ladylike gloves and bright red stilletto heels. Now that they’ve taken the initial step of bringing art and fashion together, let’s hope the Auckland City Art Gallery will foster alliance.

Next week I will be covering the fashion looks, seen on the streets and in the shop windows in Europe, and in London. While I was overseas recently, I asked CECILIE GEARY to cover the “Chance and Change” exhibition in Auckland — Paula Ryan.