Hungry days for English speakers in Paris

Press, 9 August 1985, Page 18

Hungry days for English speakers in Paris

Last month, the "Wall Street Journal." followed by British newspapers. reported that many Miche-lin-starred Paris restaurants operate a quota system to keep out foreigners. They do not allow more than 40 per cent of their tables to be occupied by English speakers, by which they mean mostly Americans. writes Paul Levy of the London "Observer." Two three-star restaurants. Taillevent and Tour d'Argent, openly admit to rationing foreigners, as does at least one two-star establishment. Lasserre.

But one leading restaurateur. Alain Senderens, who had three stars at L'Archestrate and awaits the same grade at Lucas-Carton, to which be has recently moved, calls the ban "scandalous”: Senderens has a restaurant in New York.

The veteran Paris reporter Sam White has advised his readers in the London "Standard" "The best tip for English visitors who wish to book into a three-star Paris restaurant this summer is for them to brush up their French and book their table with an impeccable French accent." What none of the reporters seem to have realised, however, is that the American quota may well be being taken up by just one American. He is Robert Noah, a soft-spoken native of St Louis. Noah started Paris in Cousine in 1975, conducting tours of restaurant kitchens. He moved into the reservations business two years ago. Would-be diners (almost all American) call him at his office at 78 rue de la Croix-Nivert in the 15th arrondissement (phone 250-0423).

Noah charges $46 for the first two bookings and $15.50 for each subsequent table. Restaurants give his clients priority because thev know there will be no no-shows. ’ He has been so successful (254: places this July and 400. so far. for September) that he operates his own quotas.

The 500 subscribers to his "Gastronomic Newsletter" ($66 a year! get a discount on his booking fees. In future be will not book you into certain prize restaurants' at all unless you are a subscriber or a very good customer.

At present, he can get you a table for lunch at Taillevent in September, but for dinner at the same restaurant you have to wait until October.

Copyright—London Observer Service.