W. Samoa—Pacific treat

Press, 2 July 1985, Page 24

W. Samoa—Pacific treat

By

SUSAN KUROSAWA

In addition to the established banquet of South Pacific tropical treats, Western Samoa is lazily emerging as a contender for New Zealand tourist traffic.

But this group of independently governed islands sits uneasily under the spotlight of international interest; it is a place unfamiliar with invasions of holidaymakers and is not geared to the requirements of sophisticated travellers. Perhaps it is this lack of contrived atmosphere or visible tourist lures that ' makes Western Samoa so attractive. And attractive it certainly is: palm-fringed scoops of golden beach; lofty mountains brooding like Hokusai’s petrified woodblock waves over a timeless landscape; stretches of jungle studded with mighty banyan trees and drizzled with neonbright' bougainvillea, and graceful islanders always ready to smile and wave. This is the “paradise found” of Robert Louis Stevenson and James A. Michener. The former writer spent the final years of his life in Apia, the capital, while the latter based his legendary “Tales of the South Pacific” on his experiences and observations in Western Samoa. Both novelists claimed that the islands were home to Polynesia’s friendliest people. Stevenson is buried atop Mount Vaea facing the sea and his grave is accessible via a steep, signposted roadway. His spacious

colonial-style residence is now the home of the Head of State.

Apia is a disorganised, rather dilettante town. That standard South Seas fixture, the Burns Philp trading store, dominates the waterfront. The nearby markets do a lively trade in fruit, fish, shells, baskets and printed cloth. There is a cottage industries emporium with a haphazard selection of wooden and woven goods, and a reasonable array of service stores. One does not visit Western Samoa for the shopping. Farther along the main waterfont road stands Aggie Grey’s Hotel, as much an institution as Burns Philp, but with a much more earthy reputation. Aggie Grey originally started a bar for United States servicemen in the Pacific during World War 11, but her establishment soon grew into a hostelry catering for all manner of adventurers and travellers.

Today, it is a homely, unpretentious place with a good pool, interesting clientele, flower-festooned gardens and functional, no-frills rooms. Meals are included in the daily tariff and the mai-tais are the most devastating in town. The backpack brigade can opt to stay at fale-style guesthouses (traditional open-sided buildings) where daily tariff is nominal, the mosquitoes are ferocious, and the simple meals are based on delicious local

seafood. The island of Savai’i has several of these establishments set amid a surreal stage-set of volcanic rocks, primeval forests, deserted beaches and sudden, thundering blowholes. There are several daily connections by vehicle ferry or air from the main island of Upolu. One should allow time in

Western Samoa to drift and discover. The snail-like pace of life provided balm to the wary soul. Maybe the scenery is not so very different to many other South Pacific destinations but I guarantee you’ll feel like part of a “Treasure Island” adventure tale and that sensation is worth a mountain of pieces of eight.