Kids today: dressed up in fine style

Press, 13 March 1985, Page 12

Kids today: dressed up in fine style

In vogue

Paula Ryan

The collections of miniature couture fall into four imaginative categories, just as clearly defined as the categories of the current haute couture, and carrying just as insistent a fashion message to the rest of the world ... tartans, brights, orientals and adventurers.

Strong signals of children’s wear come from the winter tartans.

As an adult fashion, there is no make-believe in the tartan story. Each pattern has been faithfully reproduced from the traditional Scots clan tartans.

The trend as signalled from Europe, has immediately been followed in New Zealand with shirts and dungarees. Tartans are being used in the most imaginative ways in printed cardigans with zipped pockets and metallic grippers, very squareshaped sweaters which are non-blousing, with rib-knits polos and bands hanging loosely over the hips. Little flared and gored skirts flirt beneath, again in shapes interpreted for New Zealand. From the children’s couture in Europe, raglan jumpers, zipped all the way up the raglan seaming and on, up to the top of the high inset ribbed knit collars are

high priority worn with ribbed knit pants. The tartans and the Scots are followed closely in couture by the Orientals with simple forms, geometric seam lines, and quilted insets.

Embroidered motifs and attractive applique abound in this group, with gimaginative use of contrasting and vivid colours usually on a dark ground. Europe showed Japanese

inspired jumpsuits with 1 double-layering on the bodices. The top layer is often quilted and wrapped asymmetrically, with quick-trick, Velcro fastenings. The Oriental group comprises mostly jumpsuits and their variations, and these are often accompanied by their own padded and quilted matching jackets. It was in the jackets that applique and embroidery really stars used mostly on

the back, or extravagantly on the cuffs. Armholes are invariably big and square, cut deeply, almost to the waist.

Trousers stop short of the ankle, in Oriental tradition.

The “Adventurers” theme must find instant appeal for the young New Zealander. Borrowed from the men for the boys, and carried out specifically in casual, outdoors wear, the theme is worked and detailed in a very authentic way. Generally the colours are sombre and the fabrics tough. Canvas, brushed denim, corduroy, waterproof brushed cotton, quilting, furlined suede or suede cloths, fake furs for fun prevail. Loose trousers prevail in waterproof fabrics, with wadded linings and pleating into waist pockets. Multi-pocketed jackets feature quilted linings. There are straps and hidden pockets galore, inside and out, fake-fur lines collars and clever Velcro fastenings abound, often hidden under heavy metal. Rib-knit inserts in action sleeve settings are used extensively as are high shaped polo collars which sit away from the neck. Angled pockets abound, and jaunty headwear comes on strong.

Influenced by all the new waves hitting the streets

over the world is a group, broadly called “Hip Hop,” with the subtle overtones of break dance and graffiti, some wild fluorescent colours and big, bold, and graphic prints on sweat shirts. Unexpected contrasting colours are taken from the haute couture, and used particularly, in blouson jackets. Trousers are invariably jean-shaped in this group, generally looser, gathered and pleated at the waist and very often with quilted knee patches and “accident preventive.”

In New Zealand, the patter of little feet is invariably following in echoes of the trends coming out of the European couture collections.

The Pied Pipers of the fashion capitals are mustering a following. The boys are geared up for New Zealand adventuring, or following in the “Hip Hop” footsteps. The girls are in traditional kilts, in bright exclamation marks of colour, “Hip hopping” in fashion, or demure in tiny, Orientally inspired prints. One thing is certain, the designers of New Zealand gear for the kids are certainly not very far behind the trend-setters.