Time to savour

Press, 2 June 1984, Page 14

Time to savour

GRAPEVINE

Maurice Hunter’s

If any proof is needed that wines do not just happen, but are the result of many years of patient experiment, it is surely provided in the selection of eight choice wines about to be released by Montana. Some of these have been made from hand-picked, selected bunches of grapes which have been left on rhe vines to obtain the maximum of natural sugar. All have been subjected to different cellar techniques from the norm. On the principle that excess wood treatment or added sugar will mask faults, most of them have been produced in a dry style showing the true character of the grape. For this reason, they are not wines which everyone may enjoy at this stage. They are essentially for the person who takes pleasure in thinking about his beverage, making comparisons, and indulging in discussion with others spminded; for I do not believe that anyone is able to extract the full value from such wine drinking unless in company. Indeed, these are not wines which everyone will

have the opportunity to enjoy. Although in the higher price bracket, production was so limited that distribution will be on an allocation basis to selected outlets. Called the Winemaker’s Selection, each wine has been selected by Peter Hubscher, Montana’s chief winemaker and an associate director of the company, as having properties which set it aside from those normally produced. In whatever style each wine shows itself at present, it is almost certain to show how much better advantage when cellared for the recommended period of from three to eight years. The sweeter wines, however, are already in fine condition. They may be well enjoyed now. Winemaker’s Selection wines will be available by the single bottle. Limited quantities have been given the V.I.P. treatment of packaging in attractive pine presentation boxes. They are open-fronted so that the labels may be read, and will be sought probably by purchasers wishing to make a special gift to someone near and dear. There are four bottles in each box,

comprising Selection A and Selection B. Selection A consists of: • 1981 private bin riesling sylvaner, a wine of strong varietal bouquet, lively appearance and full in fruit all the way through the palate — an elegant wine of good balance with a pleasant lift in the finish. Four to five years. • 1982 semilion. This is a bone dry wine of light golden colour. In spite of its pronounced bouquet, the fruit is not showing through to any great degree at this stage. It will obviously need some of the four to six years recommended to fully develop. • 1980 sauvignon blanc private bin — a delicate wine of the Loire Valley style. It is elegant, clean, and crisp on the palate, but tends to fade rather early. Currently a good fish wine, it requires more bottle age to show the full varietal characteristics. Four to five years. • Lexia 1982. Made from Dr Hogg muscat grapes, the rich golden colour and perfumed bouquet prepares the palate for the full honeyed fruit flavour with a lasting finish. Stop fermentation

has retained some of the natural sugar in this soft dessert wine. Three to four years. Selection B consists of: ® 1981 fume blanc. The sauvignon blanc grapes of this wine were Gisbornegrown, and matured briefly in new Limousin oak. It has good fruit on the middle palate but too much acid in the finish. It has a way to go to full maturity, as indicated by the recommended minimum of six years of cellaring.

• 1981 gewurztraminer private bin. Made from Marlborough grapes, this is a wine of finesse. It has a clear gold colour, big bouquet and full honeyed fruit. It is not as dry as the commercial style and is rich and strong in finish. Three to four years. • The 1981 exhibition sauteme is made from sauvignon blanc grapes which were ripened on the vines until late autumn to a raisin-like consistency. Slow

pressing to retain the natural flavours has resulted in a wine of perfumed bouquet, intense fruit, and a lingering, honeyed finish. Three to four years. ® 1978 Marlborough cabernet sauvignon was made from selected bunches of grapes from a good vintage. The wine has a rich ruby colour, a strong bouquet, and is smooth and fruity. It was aged in small Limousin barrels for one year. While the wood is apparent, it is not overpowering and the

finish is pleasantly as.tringent. This wine has already won two gold awards and is recommended for a further five to eight years cellaring. Also sampled for comparison was Marlborough cabernet sauvignon 1981, another gold award winner and judged the best red wine in the latest Easter Show competition. It is very similar in character to the 1978, and shows every sign of following in the footsteps of its elder brother.