Out with he ‘cheapies'

Press, 19 May 1984, Page 12

Out with he ‘cheapies'

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE

It will probably come as no surprise to most wine drinkers to learn that 50 per cent of New Zealand white wine is sold in casks.

Since the inception of this type of pack we have had dished up to us a variety of sizes, and a greater variety of quality. Once available only in 4litre packs, the increasing unit price owing to inflation and much heavier sales tax has led producers to drop back to the 3-litre size.

The Food and Drug Regulations have probably exerted the greatest pressure for improved quality, and the iniquitous days when water was freely added to grape juice are long since gone.

Buyers of cask wines may

be assured that, whatever the contents of the pack, it is at least all from grapes, not partly from the tap. At the same time, wine sold in bulk indicates that it should be much cheaper. In the effort to put a cask on the market at the cheapest possible price, some producers have done themselves a grave disservice, and have served up some very yukky blends. All they have achieved is to sell alcohol at a price. In doing so they have set wine appreciation back by years. Whether the younger generation of wine drinkers can afford to buy premium wines is a matter of priorities, but the fact remains that most of them do not.

Many of them buy whatever appears to be value for quantity, regardless. If they learn to accept sub-standard wines, it is going to be a long time before they get around to what is good. So the sooner the "cheapies” go, and the sooner they are replaced with good quality cask wines, the better.

With this philosophy in mind, Gorbans are following up their success with Marlborough muller thurgau by marketing it in a 3 litre pack. The pack is eye-catching and tasteful, conveying an indication of the quality of the wine, which was' recently acclaimed at a tasting in California as being of world wide standard. Since it is exactly the same wine which is sold in bottles, the price of around $l7 may be equated with that for four bottles at $5.75, namely $23. or two 1.5 litre carafes for $l9. Because of freighting

problems supplies to the South Island may be delayed for a week or so. For the sport minded wine drinkers, it is worthy of mention that Corbans riesling sylvaner, also produced from the muller thurgau grape, has been chosen as the official Olympic Sponsorship Appeal wine, and that every litre sold ensures a significant donation to the Olympic Games Appeal. Included in the range of quality wines appearing in casks are two from Penfolds — traminer riesling and muller thurgau. The traminer riesling is light in body, with good fruit character from the riesling and a nice degree of spiciness from the traminer,

while the muller thurgau is pleasantly fruity, nicely balanced and with a clean fresh finish. Adding to the Montana range of Blenheimer, Blenheim, Dry Chablisse and Fairhall River claret is Marlborough Benmorven muller thurgau, the bottled pack of which has been shipped in quantity to West Germany, the home of muller thurgau, where it has been readily accepted. Not to be overlooked is Mission white burgundy, a pleasantly agreeable blend of riesling sylvaner, Sauvignon blanc and semilion, a dry white wine with a round, full bodied character, and crisp finish. It is unfortunate that supplies of Mission St Mary riesling from the 1983 vintage are no longer available. We must wait for the 1984 crop to be processed. If it is as good it may be assured of a warm welcome. So, with all these wines of quality coming forward in 3-litre casks, it is to be hoped that a general appreciation of what is good will develop and that the “cheapies” will dig their own graves.