Gardeners’ queries

Press, 11 May 1984, Page 10

Gardeners’ queries

them still further. Apply acephate or permithrin and repeat several times over eight to nine weeks. A clean-up spray of winter oil could be given during the winter. Copper oxychloride is a fungicide. I enclose a cutting of a photinia which, following planting just over two years ago, made very good progress but since the middle of last year there has been practically no growth. A light trimming last spring produced signs of new growth, but they did not develop into good foliage as the cutting will show. A similar plant 10m away is thriving and as I cannot understand why the other is so unattractive, I would be grateful for opinion as to what can be done to give it a new lease of life. — D.W. (Chch). The only comment that I can make is that the leaves suggest that the shrub may be in a rather too exposed position, possibly suffering from the effects of salt-laden winds. If growth is generally unsatisfactory it may be advisable to replant elsewhere. Photinia do not transplant readily if they are very well established, so care should be taken to avoid root disturbance as much as possible. This apple was thought to be a Lord Wolseley by the previous owner, but we disagree. Perhaps you can name it for us? The apple is a good cooker and eater. Also enclosed for possible identification is a twig and leaves from a two-metre high, small tree—P.B. (Chch). The apple does not appear to be a Lord Wolseley but identification, particularly where it concerns less commonly grown cultivars, cannot really be made without several samples for comparison. Similarly, it is regrettable that no assistance can be given regarding plant identification as it appeared as though the leaves had been greatly chewed awav by an insect. Resubmission of further samples may provide the required information.

I grow tomatoes in 15-litre plastic containers. With regard to base and side dressings I have no reliable guide to what is enough and not too much or optimum intervals of application. I use superphosphate, potash, epsom salts, and urea. Fluctuations of supply seem to be indicated by evidence of small fruit blossom end rot, and signs of potash and ammonia deficiencies. Could you give me a balanced base mixture, and also a good side dressing mixture expressed in dry parts, and what quantity (level tablespoons, etc.), of this mixture per plant, and at what stated intervals? To give a more even continuous balance would it be better to apply side dressings more often in liquid form, and if so bow much per gallon of water for 20 plants?—M.B. (Chch). To answer this query adequately would require a section on its own, as there are many factors involved in growing tomatoes in containers. Two major factors which are of particular significance in this form of culture have also not been related. It is important to know what the medium is in which the crop is being grown, and, second, if it is soil, its composition and analysis. Even when all factors are known it is not just a matter of simply applying a formula and that’s it, as even the most experienced growers have found. A fertiliser guide for average soils is to add two parts and a half of nitrolime to five parts serpentine superphosphate and one part potassium sulphate (all oy weight) at 150 g per square metre of soil. This can be most simply achieved by thinly spreading out the medium to the dimension given on a clean flat surface and adding the base mix. Following thorough incorporation, subsequent quantities can be quickly gauged by putting it in a container. Side dressings, a teaspoon of equal parts of dried blood plus potassium sulphate, can be made

following setting of first fruit Again it is stressed that the forgoing provides a guideline only and that prevailing circumstances, etc., must dictate all procedures when growing tomatoes in more specialised forms of culture. Is there any raspberry variety which does better than others in a shady area? Taylor has done very poorly, while around the corner in the sun Morley is thriving. Would Fairview be any better, as I read it is one of the best? Where can it be bought? I am growing strawberries in old guttering, about one metre above ground. I used treated timber to get more beigbt, but lost quite a few plants. I used mushroom compost, (a) Is treated timber anti-plant? (b) Would polythene lining solve the problem? (c) Is mushroom compost the best, or would straight out compost be better?—l.M. (Chch). Fruit does best in full sun and I do not know of any cultivar of raspberry which will give as good results in the shade, particularly in flavour, as it would when grown in a sunny location. I think that Fairview is now fairly generally obtainable. With reference to your strawberry growing ventures, the main problems would seem to me to be lack of depth of rooting medium, the use exclusively of mushroom compost, and the prob- ■ able lack of sufficient moisture under the circumstances as • they apply generally to your system. It is doubtful that the treated timber would have any effect on the strawberry plants. These plants prefer a ■ more acidic medium in which ’ to grow than that afforded by mushroom compost, some of which can be extremely alkaline. Gardeners’ Queries should be sent direct to Mr M. Lusty, ■ 56 Wayside Avenue, Christchurch 5. Representative . samples should be separately wrapped, in plastic bags with air holes.