Coast scenic route open again

Press, 9 May 1984, Page 28

Coast scenic route open again

By

Jonathan Sharp

of Reuter (through NZPA) One of the world’s great scenic journeys has become possible again. In May, 1983, rainstorms triggered a huge landslide which' engulfed a section of Highway 1, a road which winds along the often breathtakingly scenic California coast from Los Angeles to San Francisco. Although narrow and twisting for much of its length, Highway 1 is the preferred driving route between the two cities for those with time to admire spectacular views of the Pacific surf crashing against the rugged coast. As well as the natural scenery, preserved in a series of Government-con-trolled parks, there are

man-made attractions such as the bizarre mixture of architectural styles at San Simeon Castle, built in the 1920 s by the newspaper publisher, William Randolph Hcsrst There is also the town of Monterey, whose sardinecanning district was the setting for two novels by John Steinbeck, “Cannery Row” and “Sweet Thursday.” The landslide made part of the coastal journey impossible and travellers were forced to use the straighter, faster but tedious inland roads for the 640 km drive between Los Angeles and San Francisco. For the residents of Big Sur, a village of 150 people about 200 km south of San Francisco, and other picturesque communities on either side of the slide, the closing

of the road meant that they were living at a dead end. Initially at least, many residents relished the increased tranquillity and serenity resulting from the halt in the flow of tourists. Many people had moved to this area just because of its peace and quiet. Wildlife also benefited, and people reported seeing such rarities as mountain lion, wild boar, and elk which ventured down from the nearby Santa Lucia mountains. But the isolation also meant hardship fof those who depended on tourists for a living, particularly owners of restaurants, hotels and petrol stations and also the many artists who live here and sold their work to travellers. The landslide -had a

dramatic impact on the local economy, according to David Ackerman of the California State business, transportation and housing agency. He estimated that losses totalled ?18 million in the Big Sur area and a further $l6 million in the Monterey Peninsula, which lies between Big Sur and San Francisco to the north. About 400 people lost their jobs. “Everyone around here got scared and started selling their homes,” said a local artist, Emil White. “None of my old friends are around anymore.” Businesses closed down and people who had lived here for generations were forced to move away. Eventually the landslide was cleared and the vital

artery of Highway 1 reopened in April, amid much local celebration. An estimated one million tourists stayed away from Big Sur during the 11 'months that the road was closed. Now it is open and the sound of cash registers is competing with that of the surf. Even those residents who savoured the solitude appear to have no regrets. “For a while it was fun being cut off, but there were too many hardships,” said Greg Hawthorne, a painter who arrived in Big Sur shortly before the landslide hit. “We have a little chunk of Big Sur here, but it should be shared with the whole world. It’s too magnificent to have just to ourselves.”