Sampling the right stuff

Press, 21 April 1984, Page 14

Sampling the right stuff

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE

The vineyards of Champagne are among the most northerly in the world. They are subject to rugged winters and general weather conditions such that it is a wonder that it is possible even to ripen grapes. And yet, from about 27,000 hectares around Reims and Epernay, vines grown in the chalky soil have an annual yield of millions of bottles of the most elegant wine in the world, Champagne. The area of Champagne, when outlined upon a map of France, appears to be pathetically small. It is difficult to realise that, in kilometre on kilo-, metre of deep cellars, said to have been dug by the Romans in the search of building material, approximately 400 million bottles are quietly maturing. The development of champagne, as we know it today, took place in the late sixteenth century by a benedictine monk, Dorn Perignon. He was cellarmaster of the Abbey of Hautvillers for 47 years, although he probably worked in conjunction with Frere Jean Oudart, cellarmaster of the Abbey of Pierry. Until that time it had been noted that certain wines went through a secondary fermentation in the bottle in the spring, but they had the unfortunate habit of breaking the bottles which were not designed to withstand the pressure. Dom Perignon not only used stronger bottles but also carried out extensive experiments in blending, which has resulted in today’s blend of Chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier.

He is also credited with being the first to use Spanish corks to replace the primitive stoppers of oil soaked cotton wadding. Dom~ Perignon’s tech-

niques were still being followed when, about 150 years later, the house of Pol Roger was founded. It quickly rose to become known as one of the prestige Champagne producers. Beneath the company’s offices, appropriately located on the Avenue de Champagne in Epernay, 25,000 square metres of chalk galleries descending in three storeys to a depth of 30 metres, house millions of bottles of Pol Roger champagne — about three to four years’ stock. The grapes grown in the company owned vineyards around Epernay produce approximately one third of requirements. The remainder comes from approved contract growers, total production being in the vicinity of 1.5 million bottles. Although Pol Roger has a world wide reputation, there is a strong Anglo Saxon link. Among the company’s proud records is the guest list comprising 81 Royals from all over the world who attended the royal banquet at Claridges on July 29, 1981, to celebrate the marriage of The Prince of Wales with The Lady Diana Spencer. Pol Roger 1969 was served with the main course. Pol Roger was the late Sir Winston Churchill’s favourite. In the years during which he occupied 10 Downing Street, about 500 cases were delivered there, and Winny is credited with consuming one bottle a day. He also named one of his race horses Odette Pol Roger after the then president’s wife. The Anglo Saxon link is further illustrated by the account of an interview with Christopher Soames, Sir Winston’s son-in-law. When sent to conduct negotiations in Salisbury, Rhodesia, he included a sup-

ply of Pol Roger in his diplomatic baggage. Negotiations were at a particularly difficult stage when he made the surprising announcement that “the problem will be settled in thirty days.” When asked how he could be so sure Mr Soames replied, “Because I have only 30 bottles of Pol Roger left!”

These accounts were related in Christchurch last week by M. Christian PolRoger, a grandson of the founder and the general manager of the company, in addressing a small luncheon gathering of wine enthusiasts.

Although there was necessarily mention of Pol Roger in these incidents, it was

significant that in his address he spoke only of champagne, preferring to be an ambassador for the wine rather than to blow his own trumpet. Together with his cousin, M. Christian de Billy, the Edent of the company, tian Pol-Roger is intensely proud of the fact that they head one of the few remaining classic, privately owned quality houses, engaged in the pursuit of excellence rather than mass production and volume sales.

After coping with all the regulations governing the most, strictly controlled wine in the world, (even to the pruning to ensure that the tonnage does not exceed

the permitted maximum), the two principles personally select and compose the blends to ensure that perfect marurity is made avaiable to their world wide clientele.

Christian Pol-Roger was guarded in his comments on New Zealand champagne. His Gallic courtesy and sense of diplomacy came to the fore when he said simply, “I am taking a few bottles home where we will taste and assess it but, for me, there is only Champagne.” “You feel,” I asked, “that we are being rather naughty in applying the term to our bottle fermented sparkling wines?”

“You get my meaning,” he replied.

I sipped away at a glass ‘‘ of Pol Roger. I savoured its.< yeasty aroma, its full fruiti-‘ ness, its magnificent bal< ance beginning with a slight'"astringency on the front ■ palate and followed by aj hint of residual sweetness in--the lingering finish — and I* got his meaning. ~