Buyer beware: check the detailed plan

Press, 14 April 1984, Page 14

Buyer beware: check the detailed plan

Since the last column I have received three questions relating to the purchase of ownership flats or town houses.

All were purchased during construction, and in each case the buyers seemed unsure of just what they could expect to be included as part of the purchase agreement.

All had either not received things that they had assumed would be provided, or were required to pay extra for necessary items.

The problem of what is included and what is not, is most likely to occur when a purchaser enters into an agreement to buy at an early stage of construction. The purchaser may have decided to buy after seeing a similar completed unit built by the same developer, or may have been influenced by the verbal assurances of the selling agent. No matter how or at what stage the decision to buy was made it is most likely that the contract to buy was established by signing a Sale and Purchase of Land Agreement form.

These forms are excellent for the purpose for which they were designed. The space left for “Special Terms,” however, is not adequate to fully detail a building only partially constructed, if indeed it has been started at all.

A fully detailed plan and specification must be attached to describe just what is being offered. The purchaser should then be in no doubt as to what to expect on completion — paths, drive, fences, gates, letter box, clothes line, landscaping, or whatever. No mater how nice the salesperson was don’t assume that you will be getting anything that is not specifically stated. One question that you. could ask is, “Is this dwell-

ing covered by a Building Performance Guarantee Corporation Indemnity?” This indemnity will provide very good purchaser protection. Until such time as a better system is devised it is still very much a case of “buyer beware.” Don’t rely on others to check everything for you.

qWhere can I obtain a copy of the new Building Code that I heard about at the end of last year? I intend building my own home soon but I find the existing rules all a bit technical. “Artist”

ASorry, but if you are referring to the new National Building Code proposed by the Reviewers of Building Con'trols in their report of May 1983, then I believe' you will have to wait until at least late 1986 before anything is in print. Even then you will probably be disappointed because I would not expect the new code to make the building

of a house any less technical. The Review of Building Controls is intended more to sort out and simplify the proliferation of regulations and bylaws affecting the building industry. One researcher identified at least 500 documents having control in some form over building and planning. It would appear that 19 Government departments and at least six ministers are involved in planning and building controls. It has been said that the new code will result in cost savings in house building, but we have yet

Home Line

with

Bill Harrison

to see positive evidence of this. In the meantime, get to grips with the technicalities of building, or perhaps you could consider contracting with an experienced builder. Ql am extending a room on our house. The roof will be a flat metal tray type with about 2 degrees of pitch. My problem is — do I put the building paper underlay on top of the 75 x 50 purlins or under the purlins and on top of the rafters? Driving around the city I have seen both methods

used so I am confused as to what to do. “Norm” AWatching building construction can be interesting and at times somewhat confusing to the lay person — experts can make it look so easy. Traditionally timber sarking was laid over the purlins and then the roofing iron was fixed over the sarking. Timber sarking has largely been re-

placed by wire netting and building paper, or more correctly, roofing felt, and fixing this material is now usually assigned to the roofing sub-contractor after the carpenter has fixed in place the purlins. For your roofing job you may find it easier to use that method, but consider two points: (1) Be sure to allow plenty of lap to the paper and plenty of sag between the purlins to compensate for any shrinkage that may occur. To avoid the paper making contact with the metal roofing you could consider using a 12mm batten laid along the purlins between the roofing and the paper underlay. (2) Be sure to use a vapour barrier between the ceiling lining and the insulation as this will keep the moisture problem in your very restricted air space in this type of roof a minimum. (/I have bought an ownership flat with a concrete floor, and I wonder if you can tell me whether there is anything in the theory that concrete floors are cold? Last spring I found that I was subject to cold feet and could only put it down to having a concrete floor for the first time in my experience. I suppose there is no way of combating this

apart from ordinary ( heaters, those with under- - floor electric heating don’t suffer in this way it . seems, but too late for that! “Any Suggestions" ) AWhen I first read your ; question I immediately • laid your letter down, as I ; did not know how to reply. ‘ Having consulted with ’ others, I will now attempt an answer. I am unaware of any theory that concrete floors are .cold. In fact, the ; reverse is more likely to be the case. Designers of t passive solar houses expect the mass of a concrete floor to absorb and retain heat to be given off again as temperatures change. ’ With today’s floor . coverings it is extremely • difficult for people to ' know whether they are on <■ a wooden or concrete ' floor. Yes, it certainly is too late to install heating in the floor slab, but I would - suggest that you seek ad- J vice from the M.E.D.’s » consumer advisory officer about thermostatically ( controlling your heaters to maintain a comfortable >’ warmth at an economical cost. If you have a question . relating to home ownership or maintenance write to “Homeline,” c/o The Building Centre, P.O. Box 22-143, Christchurch.