Markets sell bargains

Press, 28 June 1983, Page 29

Markets sell bargains

The colourful open markets of Fiji are many, from the largest in the cities to the very small in isolated villages. We have discovered that whenever there is a bus station there is sure to be a market. The less populated villages have a market only once or twice a week. Yet, large or small, all markets share one thing in common — an early start to the day’s business. From 6 a.m. at least, customers arrive to claim the freshest and best fruit and vegetables. Much of the produce itself has been transported by bus, perched on the knees of hopeful vendors or, more precariously, stored in racks overhead. Not infrequently, chickens make lastminute escape bids, rendered futile by the eagerness of the entire busload to foil the attempt. Markets on the tourist beat are almost certain to offer handicrafts. For these goods bargaining is a must; produce, on the other hand is almost always sold at a set price. Our Sigatoka market is especially well-stocked, situated as it is at the mouth of a lush, 80km river valley known as the “salad bowl” of Fiji. The variety of produce here is bewildering. The trading area covers a block in which more than 200 people earn their living, displaying their wares on concrete benches. Produce is weighed on old-fashioned scales in rusty oval saucers. I have found that before shopping it is wise to check prices in the weekly market report published in our local paper. These suggested prices are also broadcast by Radio Fiji one evening a week in English, Hindi and Fijian. Most of the vendors within the lattice-wired walls of the market are of Indian descent. The Fijian vendors usually come to town only for Friday and Saturday trading and they occupy the fringe areas. Most have a knowledge of English, but it is very much their second language. My cheery “Good morning” is usually answered with “Hello fine.” Away from the more familiar fruits and vegetables you will find the local produce. In New Zealand I considered it chic to serve avocado pears, aubergine, capsicum or okra, but here, in season, they are very cheap and in abundance. Vegetables are sold in “heaps,” 20

By

RAENIS WILLIAMS

green beans or five green peppers for only 20c. In the flush, even English cabbages cost only 20c for five — very cheap filling for our growing boys when they are home for the holidays. Cucumbers — never more than 20c each — drop at the peak of their season to five for 20c. We particularly enjoy Chinese cabbage, a bundle (more than enough for five people) costing only 20c. Surprisingly, fish is comparatively expensive: for example, eight crabs cost $l2. Walu, in demand here for the island dish kokodo, is the favourite. Octopus is keenly sought by the inland Fijians who live too far from the coast to catch their own. Baskets of kai, freshwater mussels, are on offer everywhere around the fish stalls in woven palm baskets. Incidentally, I have no knowledge whatsoever of the slugs that are purportedly for sale in Fiji’s markets. Visitors will probably be most interested in the handicraft stalls. The

vendor is usually an Indian and one family might operate four or five stalls. Do your shopping before you are tired and make sure you have plenty of time to compare prices. Vendors are clever, persistent and aggressive almost to the point of rudeness at times. Many come from a nearby village where they also operate handicraft stalls. They also trade at the Kautoka waterfront when a cruise ship is in port, leaving home at 3 a.m. and heading back again at about 7 p.m. The range of handicraft for sale includes woven bags, hampers, tablemats, and floor mats. These are made from pandanus straw, exposed for various periods to the sunlight to create different shades. Such articles are attractively woven. Hampers range from $4 up; tablemats about $3 for six. Another good buy is possible from the large range of woodware: bowls, plates and dishes are practical choices. An average-size salad bowl with wooden servers costs about $6. Trinkets by the hundreds catch the eye, usually priced from $1 to $5. Brass items and Indian silver goblets are cheap. Tapa pieces (decorative bark paintings) are priced from $4. As well, the carvings, war clubs, clocks and shells ensure that you’ll find a gift for everyone at a price to suit. A good rule is to bargain for every item separately and to resist “lumped together” bargains. A morning at the market will prove to be interesting and enjoyable. Although living here and seeing it constantly it is an area of town of which I never tire.