New look ’83

Press, 31 March 1983, Page 8

New look ’83

POffIFOUO

Janetta Mackay

Sleek, sophisticated styles in boldly proportioned shapes are given whimsical wit with clever accessories for a distinctive new winter fashion look for 1983. For the first time since the late 19705, when the wide-shouldered look was introduced, fashions have again taken an entirely new turn. The look given by “total” co-ordinated dressing makes for a clean, lean silhouette. Shoulders are still wide, but padding has been sofHead lines Hair is sleekly cropped, swept back or tidily tied. Hatted highlights are the fedora and the beret. Making faces A pale palette sees the lightly powdered, matte face free from all but a trace of blusher. Definition and depth is given with deeply coloured lips and richly shaded eyes. Lips are blotted with rich reds, browns or magentas. Eyes gleam coolly under gem-bright emeralds, blues and violets. For more natural emphasis slate grey, teal blue, and subdued greens are used. Colour is swept across the lid and in an arc above the crease for a wide-awake eye. The new round shape is further high-lighted by a lighter colour on the brow bone and under the lower lashes, which are topped with mascara. Neck notes Coat collars cross geometrically. Shirts, with ruffled and frilled trims soften severe suits. In white they sharply contrast solid shades. Silkily shaped or cotton crisp, some are loosely square cut. Bow ties are a mannish touch given new flair left half-tied or draped. Adding interest Jewellery is a bold bangle, a chunky necklace, belts a thin sliver at waist level, or a hip-hugging, wide wrap in fabric or leather. Knit wit Amusing cast-offs are patched and appliqued. Colours are vibrant flashes to enliven cold days. Shapes are loosely constructed as sweaters and vests. Leg wraps Toning tights, shoes, and skirts give heightened illusion as leg-lengtheners. Texture adds interest. Socks are ribbed. Ths range is multi-col-oured for bright flashes under trousers worn with flat shoes. Stepping out Heels rise to new heights, fined-down to wear with slim shapes. Alternatives are low Cuban and Louis heels and indispensable flat leather pumps worn with ■ trousers. The best boots are straight and narrow.

tened by the gentle fullness given by gathering and pleats. The change comes in streamlined body shapes which narrowly skirt the hip. Y-angled in a fitting flow, the new narrowness adds definition to the important topper — a cape, blouson, spencer or the newest midthigh sweep of an extended single-breasted jacket. Strong shape statements start at the shoulder and taper downward to short, straight, above-knee skirts,

mid-calf looks, slimly pleated, classic straight pants and the ankle-gath-ered trouser. Sleeves reflect the body shape. Upper-arm wideness angles in roomy dolman cut to a three-quarter-crop or a neat cuff. The comfort of sportswear and military functionalism are evident, but the new look has an elegant wearability which typifies the decade’s developing style.