High fashion right on target

Press, 19 February 1983, Page 10

High fashion right on target

In vogue

Paula Ryan

No matter what's been televised, written, said, or rumoured nationally about Barbara Lee’s seasonal fashion launch. nothing comes close to the experience of being there. Her collection is presented not only with great style but with energy, enthusiasm, bravado, and this time . . .

sheer "theatricality." From the moment the lights dimmed this week at her designer showroom, Panache and the wintery sound effects rang-out amidst gusts of simulated fog . . . there was a definite, palpable surge of fashion adrenalin.

The opening sequence — a cool. calm, wintery tableau of this season's new shape and proportion. Two tall, lean models wore the "prophetic" look in day dressing ... the narrow suit. Long black jackets over long black ankle-brushing, side-pleated skirts moved quietly forward from out of the mist.

The only breaking contrast from the black accessories on black were the softly draped, white wrap-blouses.

Then the mist slowly unfolded to reveal "Le Coat" . .

. long, solemn and beautifully black.

As the collection moved on. the “points" were apparent.

Coat dressing was a major theme. Suede and leather in clever colour interpretations, "swagger" knitwear and soft, long-line, layered suits with a multitude of scarves, neckwrapped and shoulder-fall-ing. symbolised the seasonal change.

Geometric black and white shapes were made into broad-shoulder. triangular shaped fine wool dresses falling just-above-the-knee. But constantly, the major winter points-to-watch were the elongated line, the new simplicity in long and shapely tailoring, the hip accentuation. slim suits, straighter skirts with occasional pleats and gathers, and coats with length as the central theme.

Everything was traditional. flawless and smart . . and all with a terrific sense of finish.

Barbara Lee's city . suit, with knee-cropped harrowskirt and padded shoulder, collarless jacket was highlighted by a widely wrapped, chin-hugging scarf.

Cropped pleated trousers with schoolgirl blouses were worn under hip-falling jackets, topper hats and gloves, providing the "newlook" in separates for essential wardrobe planning. Bold mid-Mediterranean. border print dresses ... highnecked and waist-wrapped in wide leather, had a hint of softening shoulder ruffle. The knitwear section was a head-to-toe integration of wonderful woolly elements, from Barbara Lee's own knitwear collection and highlights from the talented hand of Margaret Milne. Layers of plain fine knit jumpers. multi-coloured

"Missoni-like" jackets and vertical, ribbed, long or shorter skirts, were often hip-accentuated with slim, double military belts. Layered scarves, tiny hats, berets, and leg warmers provided detail upon detail. During the presentation, a new collection of suede by designer Bridget Brock was 'given its New Zealand premiere. Cocoon jackets with deep dolman sleeves, short culottes, pants and suits with tucking, were presented in slick colour combinations. The evening wear had viewers glued to their seats. Hand-beaded yokes and bodices of red and sapphire beads on red and black on black were not upstaged by the delicately embroidered boarder Swiss fabric dresses for special evenings. Barbara Lee's finale is always a highlight, but this season's different approach left her New Zealand-wide audience almost speechless. It commenced with a series of sexy, flirtatious designs in evening black . . . ruffled, romantic, and loaded with movement. These remained on stage and followed the look that "took off" and never faltered . . . the "smoking" jacket.

A short black spencer - jacket worn with slim * tailored trousers, evening - shirt, black tie and loaded - with diamante jewellery . . adding up to the today tux- ’. edo look. Model Maree Pannel. with -J her relentless high fashion approach, smouldered her way through and over four ’ black tie. “beast-masked" men occasionally cracking the expectant air with her ; whip. Then to add to the seasonal message of “black is now." she appeared amidst the 11 black-clad beauties -X and beasts in a glorious. black, hand-beaded and em- - broidered wedding gown. '1 complete with fine, black. short veil. It was. without question, a strong, punchy fashion presentation from start to finish ■< - from the little bits of . deliciousness to the complete ■; and total picture, all ’ im- !»’ maculately choreographed. It was a collection that -1 proved when Barbara Lee puts on a show . . . it’s all out. high-level ■ excitement with an influence that goes a very long way: from both sides of her catwalk to Auckland. Invercargill, and inbetween.