Classic looks for winter ’83

Press, 9 February 1983, Page 18

Classic looks for winter ’83

In vogue

Paula Ryan

Classicism dominates today’s male fashion mode. Subtle design effects are the trends rather than seasonal revolutionary change. Winter’s most outstanding clothes uphold tradition, but reflect fresh approaches to design, fabrics, and colour variations.

The key components of dressing for men this winter are multi-layering, understated elegance. dense tweeds, richly toned patterns and broadly proportioned sweaters:

The prime accessory accent is the ‘scarf’, now worn as a major neck accent.

The single-breasted suit remains the basis of many business wardrobes.

However, the discerning man will be motivated by the practical consideration of maximising the uses of his clothing, so he will probably buy clothing that is also versatile enough to be worn for ‘off-duty’ occasions.

It is the jacket itself that provides the fashion excitement, whether it is a standard tailored garment or the more directional, lightlystructured style.

For tailored suits ... look for full-bodied shape with

strong, defined shoulders and trimmer hips. The look is rather reminiscent of Humphrey Bogart’s style. Look out for flannels, twills and plain weaves.

checks with strong vertical emphasis, broken twills and herringbone tweeds. Colours are greys and blues for classics but also browns, bronzes with blends

of olive-mustard and blue, grey-green and turquoise. Style and function are the dual direction being followed by this season's top coats. Some carry college duffel

design, equipped with hoods and collars that shield against the elements. For more formal work or play there are coats in finer, subtly toned fabrics which boast shapely contours plus ‘ rich detailing. Whether you adopt a collegiate or gentlemanly ap-

proach. this season top coats are very much a fashion item for braving winter's blasts.

Leisure dressing shows a sportier approach.

The silhouette is boxier. with semi- and unstructured shapes. Many casual jackets contain drop shoulders with a general dressing gown look.

There is also subtle fabric mixing within one garment.

Casual suit details include shawl collars as well as conventional lapels, collarless and stand-up collars, asymetric fastenings, zip fastenings. studs and drawstring waists.

Other winter design attention focuses on side tabs, half belts, stitched seams, softness in shirt styling, inverted back pleats, rustic donegals. flannels and tweeds enriched with boucle and hemp.

Generally, much of today's casual winter fashion follows athletic function, reflecting the eighties' emphasis on all forms of physical fitness ... like the classic rugby shirt teamed with elasticisedwaist pants. Elements of survival, military and airforce wear are also evident in weekend casuals. Many styles have a very deliberately crushed 'been-in-a-bag-look'. Leather plays a reinforced part in winter dressing. It will be seen in New Zealand in jackets, trousers or as trim for knitted jackets. Stone washing remains a force in denim: and some leathers this season will also be given a worn-look treatment called ‘aggravating leather'.

Knitwear plays an important role in male wardrobes. From the cardigan to the crew neck sweater, it can be dressed as high up or as low down as the situation and your imagination permits. Colours for rustic and tweedy knits are natural and neutrals mixed with ipidtones of red. ochre and turquoise. Solid colours such as claret, airforce blue, navy, camel, graphite, plum and olive all have their place in winter's fresh but classicalapproach to men’s dressing.