Travellers’ toils of the 1870s

Press, 8 January 1983, Page 9

Travellers’ toils of the 1870s

things to do Christchurch Cathedral in Cathedral Square - open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Boating on the Avon - Antigua Boatsheds. Cambridge Terrace. Canoes and boats to hire 9.30 a.m. to 4 p.m. $1.50 per hour per person for canoes. Christchurch Polytechnic, Moorhouse Avenue, offers a summer school of foreign languages. January 5 to 21. Classes in Maori. Samoan. Japanese. Spanish. French and German. 9 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. Beginners, intermediate and advanced classes. $2O. Phone 798-150. Adventure Bus Company children s holiday programme — round public libraries. Stories, films, art and craft sessions and sports at nearby parks. Runs until February 1. Aimed at children 6-11 years. Mondav to Friday morning 9.30 a m.' to noon and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Fendalton. Library — Wednesday mornings; Hornby Library Thursday mornings and Friday afternoons; Papanui Library Thursday afternoons and Friday mornings: Shirley Library Wednesday afternoons; Redwood Librarv. all day Tuesdays January 11, 18 and 25; Spreydon Library Monday mornings January 10 and 24. Hill walks — from the Sign of kthe Takahe. Upper Cashmere to Scott Reserve. Slightly uphill but not too strenuous. Cashmere hills (2T) bus. Bridle Path Walk starts at Lyttelton near the Road Tunnel entrance, and goes over the Port Hills to Heathcote Valley. Includes a steep climb. Lyttelton (28) bus. Walkways in the Christchurch area include Godley Head, from Kaiapoi to Pegasus Bay. and from Methven. In Timaru there is a walkway in Centennial Park, and further south- there are walks from Waimate and Pareora. Information on guided walks and places to visit on Banks Peninsula is available from the Akaroa Courthouse. Arthurs Pass National Park has a summer programme of guided walks and activities throughout the holiday period. January 8: 9.30 a.m. Pylon track-Turinel portal (full day) - follow the pylons through western rain forest and descend on to the Otira Tunnel Portal. There was once a bustling tunnellers'town here. January 9; 10 a.m. Quarry Tops (full day) — along the railway line and s short walk through beech forest leads to a fragile swamp area. Return via the old railway quarry. Insect eating plants in the swap. Walks in this area will continue each day until January 14. January 8; Kaikoura — 10 a.m. Hamuri Bluff, mostly beach walking, this trip features beautiful scenery and some notable historical features. Starts from Oaro School site. 14 kilometres south of Kaikoura. Ideal swimming spots are on route. Omarama (approx, four hours drive south of Christchurch): Lake Middleton — Round Bush area tour around Lake Ohau. departs 10.30 a.m. from Lake Middleton. Free bus transport. Also North Temple walk — easy, suitable for families — walk to the head of a small mountain valley. Approximate time four hours. For further information see visitor Centre. Omarama Community Hall. Omarama (approx. four hours drive south of Christchurch) walks continue until January 14. Kaiakoura. 10 a.m.: Puhi Puhi scenic reserve — after driving approximately six kms up the beautiful Puhi Puhi valley, spend about an hour looking around the reserve. Cup of tea provided, bring own cup. Kaiakoura walks continue until January 10. Start from Forest Service Headquarters. Ludstone Road, or Phone Kaikoura 489. Hanmer Springs Forest Park — short walks of one hour, Monday to Saturday, commencing at Information Centre. Jollies Pass Road, at 10 a m. Mini bus tours around the production forest with a scenic trip included, approx. l*s hours, operating Mondays. Wednesdays. Fridays and Saturdays, leaving Information Centre 10 a.m. Day trips each Tuesday at 9.30 a.m. to a secluded bush/forest environment. Bring own lunch, billy tea provided. Return approximately 3 p.m., depending on weather. Ashley Forest Holiday Programme, January 10 to January 28: includes visits and walks to Glentui. Lake Janet. Grey River. Mt Grev Track, St Thomas Bush, Grey River Gorge. For further information phone Forest Service. Ashley,.Rangiora 8015. North Brighton Zoo - 155 Beach Road, North Beach. North Beach (19) bus. Features fish, crocodile, black panther, lion, tiger and monkeys. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission, adults $l, children 50c. Willowbank Wildlife Reserve - 60 Hussey Road, off Gardiners Road, 15 minutes drive from the Square. Bus departs Victoria k Square at 12.30 p.m. daily. Return fare plus admission: Adults ' $5.15, children $2.60. Puma, highland cattle, Arapawa goats, otters. Maori-village. Free waggon rides at 2 p.m. each day, and donkey rides at all times. Open

daily from 10 a.m. to 6 pm. Admission $2 adults. $1 children: animal food bags 20c and 50c. Orana Park - Willows Road, off Harewood Road. Bus departs Victoria Square at 12.30 p.m. daily. Return fare plus admission: Adults $6 70. children $3.35. Only drive-through lion enclosure in New Zealand. Also giraffe, tigers, water buffalo. Feeding times: 11 a.m. baby animals. 11.30 lions. 1.30 p.m. farmyard. 2.00 baby animals. 2.30 lions. 3.00 tigers. 3.30 emu. 3.45 patas monkey. 4.00 spider monkey, wolves, 4.15 otters. Open daily 10 a m. to 5 p.m. (last admissions 4.30 p.m.) Admission 3.30 adults. $1 children.

Queen Elizabeth II park - venue of the 1974 Commonwealth Games, situated at North NeuBrighton. North Beach (19) bus. Swimming pools, squash courts, synthetic all-weather track and permanent seating for 20,000 spectators. Hydroslide 10 a.m. to 8.45 p.m. daily, last tickets sold 7.55 p.m. $2.50 for half an hour, plus normal admission ($1 adults, 40c children). Phone 886-079 for hours of public use. Provincial Council Chambers - Corner Durham and Armagh Streets, inner city. Guided tours 2 p.m. and 3 p.m. Sundays. Stone chamber open weekdays 9 a m. to 4 p.m. Sign of the Takahe — Upper Cashmere Hill. Gothic style stone building with sweeping view of Canterbury Plains and Southern Alps. Open daily. Devonshire teas.

Rehua Maori Marae - only Maori reserve in city, at 79 Springfield Road, bus (18). Embodies each tribal district of New Zealand. Town Hall - Kilmore Street. Phone 68-899. Visitors welcome 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. week-days. Tours every half hour from 11 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., tours every half hour.

Cathedral of the Blessed Sacrament — Southern end of Barbadoes St. 10 minutes walk from Square, or take (3) bus. Has colonnades, galleries. Italian Mosiac floor, tapestries and bronzes. Open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. University of Canterbury — betweep Ham and Clyde Roads. Riccarton (8) or Airport bus. Tours for groups by arrangement, phone the information officer, 488-489. Timeball Station, Lyttelton - A stone fortress-like building dating from 1876, sited at the east side of Lyttelton township. It has a timeball mechanism to signal one o'clock for mariners to set their chronometers. Open daily 10 a.m. to noon. 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Admission. $1 adults. 50c children. MUSEUMS Canterbury Museum - Rolleston Avenue at entrance to Botanic Gardens and adjacent to Robert McDougall Art Gallery. Features New Zealand birds. Christchurch street of last century. Hall of Antarctic Dis-co-very, Hall of Oriental Art, Moahunter era of Maori culture. Planetarium open for public screenings at 3 p.m on Sunday afternoons. Hours: Monday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.. Sunday 2 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Phone 68-379. Ferrvmead Historic Park - transport and technological museum. Features include tram, train and railcar rides to the “Early Township." Open daily 10 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Admission $2.50 adults. $1.50 children, family ticket $B. Situated at 269 Bridle Path Road, and first turn after Ferrymead Bridge. (3) bus. Yaldhurst Transport Museum - Outside Yaldhurst Hotel, Main West Road, 12km from Christchurch. Displays of rare old vehicles and machinery including fire-engines, steam engines. Merry-go-round, fire engine rides, wagon rides right through the holidays. Tearooms. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, admission $2 adults, 75c children. Lyttelton Historical Museum - Gladstone Quay. Displays include a maritime gallery, Antarctic gallery and colonial Lyttelton. Open Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. Special hours arranged for organised parties, phone Lyttelton 8972. ART GALLERIES Robert McDougall Art Gallery - behind the Canterbury Museum in the Botanic Gardens. Open Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.. Saturday and Sunday 12.30 p.m. to 5.30 pirn. Exhibitions: Robin Morrison photography. Maori portraiture, Margaret Finnerty weaving, 20/ 20 Vision prints, Colin McCahon. Bea Maddock prints. Seven painters of the 80s. Canterbury Society of Arts — 66 Gloucester Street. Open daily from 2 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Admission 30c. Exhibitions: Graham Collins screen prints; Leigh O'Connor photos behind the curtain; Tricker anti other printmakers: Local painters; rugs and wall-hangings; Vera Burnett seascapes. Arts Centre - Old university site, Worcester Street. The nineteenth century neo-gothic buildings house community and

cultural organisations including the Court Theatre, the Southern Ballet Theatre. Free Theatre. Academy Cinema. Gingko print workshop and gallery, a specialist bookshop, two restaurants and a coffee shop, a pottery workshop and a craft workshop. Arts. Crafts and Antiques Market every Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tours available, phone GO--989. PARKS, GARDENS Botanic Gardens - Established 1863. 30 hectares. Entrance Rolleston Avenue, near Canterbury Museum. Hours: 7 a.m. to sunset. Hagley Park — 148 hectares ’ Many lovely river walks. Deans Bush and Homestead - only big area of native bush in the city. Entrance Kauri Street. ' Riccarton. Historic early homestead built by the' Deans Brothers in 1843. Riccarton (8) 1 bus to Rimu Street. Millbrook Reserve - azaleas ; and rhododendrons, adjoins Hagley Park, off Helmores Lane. Mona Vale — Reserve and reception centre. Fendalton Road. Open daily 8 a m. to 6.30 p.m. Fendalton (9) bus. Victoria Park — Cashmere Hills. A half-mile walk from the • Sign of the Takahe. Cashmere hills (2T) bus. CITY LIBRARY Main Library — corner Gloucester Street and Oxford Terrace, phone 796-914. Hours: Lending and reading: Monday to Friday. 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.: Saturday 10 a.m. to 12 noon; reading only: Saturday and Sunday 2 p.m. to 5 p.m., 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. Newspaper room: Monday to Fri- , day. 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday ; 10 a.m. to 12 noon; Sunday 2 p.ni. to 5 p.m., 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. Children's library: Monday to Thursday 10 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.; Friday 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.: Saturday 10 a.m. to 12 noon except holiday weekends. BEACHES Christchurch has a number of ; easily accessible beaches which , are safe for swimming — North ; Beach. 10 km east (19) bus: South : Brighton 10 km east (SS) bus; ; Sumner, 11km south-east (3) bus; Waimairi 10km north-east (19) • bus; New Brighton. 8 km (5) bus. SWIMMING POOLS Centennial — entrance from Armagh Street, Phone 68-917. : Hours: Monday to Thursday, 7 ! a.m. to 7.30 p.’m.; Friday, 7 a.m. 1 to 6 p.m.: Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sunday, 1 p.m. to 5.45 p.m.; , Public holidays, 1 p.m. to 4.45 , p.m. Queen Elizabeth II Park - Travis Road, North New Brighton. Phone 886-079 to check hours of various pools. Hours: Monday to Saturday, 7 a.m. to 8.45 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5.45 p.m. Jellie Park Lido. Ham Road, Burnside. Fendalton . Withells Road (9W) bus. Phone 518-774. , Hours: Monday, Wednesday. Friday. 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.: Tuesday, Thursday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, 12.30 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. W'harenui Poo) — Elizabeth Street. Riccarton. Wharenui (25) bus. Phone 486-488. Hours: Monday to Friday, noon to 1.30 p.m. (adults only), 3.15 to 5 p.m.; Mondav, Wednesday, Thursday. 7.30 p'm. to 8.30 p.m. (adulis only); Saturday 10.30 a.m. to 12 ; noon. 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday and public holidays, 10 a m. to 12 . noon. 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Sockburn Park — Main South Road. Sockburn. Hornby (8H) bus. ’ Pool has grassed areas, Barbecue facilities, play equipment and trampolines. Phone 41-344. Hours: Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. and 7 p.m. to 8 p.m.;' Saturday and public holidays, noon to 5.30 p.m.; Sunday, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Halswell Swimming Centre — Halswell Road, vicinity of Halswell Tavern. Pool has grassed areas, barbecue facilities, play equipment and trampolines. Phone 228-198. Hours: Monday to Friday, 10 a m, to 5.30 p.m. and 7 p.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturdays and public holidays, noon to 5.30 p.m.; Sunday, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Waltham Park Lido — corner of Wilsons Road and Waltham Road. St Martins (12) bus. Phone 60-725. Hours: Monday to Thursday, 10 a.m. to 5.45 p.m. and 6.30 p.m. to 7.30 p.m.; Friday. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.: Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. 1 p.m. to 4.45 p.m. Woolston Park — Ferry Road. Woolston. Sumner (3), Woolston (3W) or Mount Pleasant (23) buses. Phone 893-720. Hours: Monday to Friday 1 p.m. to 4.45 p.m.; closed weekends. Papanui Swimming Pool — Winters Road. Phone 527-624 for hours. Templeton Pool — Kirk Road. Templeton. Pool has grassed areas, barbecue facilities. play equipment and trampolines. Hours: Monday to Friday, noon to 5 p.m.; Saturday. Sunday and public holidays, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. St Albans - 43 Edgeware Road. Papanui (1) bus. Phone 555-868. Monday to Friday. 10.30 a.m. to noon. 2.30 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. and 6.30 p.m. to 7.30 p.m.; Saturday. Sunday and public holidays 2 p.m. to 4.30 p.m.

If you are stranded for days at an airport, held up by strikes on the railway or by burst tyres on the bus. you could do worse than shut your eyes and think of two nineteenth century travellers. Isabella Bird and Mary Kingsley. Whatever is happening to you. what happened to them was much, much worse.

"For good all-round inconvenience," suggests Mary Kingsley, "give me going full tilt (in a canoe) in the dark into branches of a fallen tree ... crash, swish, crackle and your hair is being torn out and vour clothes ribboned

Isabella would probably have selected falling off her horse over and over again in steep gulches, and once being knocked off a ledge by the horse falling on her; “Poor Mrs C. was much bruised, and I pitied her, for she got no fun out of it as I did." Isabella Bird travelled the American West in the 1870 s, when it really was wild; Mary Kingsley went to West Africa in the iB9os. Appalling things happened to them: they fell, got lost, were bitten and stung and soaked. Mary Kingsley waded breasthigh across African rivers and ended up with a ‘collar of leeches'; Isabella crashed through the ice with her horse 100 yards from land and the snow beat on her eyes till the tears came - and then froze, so that she had to take off a glove and pick one eye open to see where she was going.

In the Rocky Mountains she found that the men, though greatly given to shooting one another up in bars, invariably respected a woman, and she could go anywhere unmolested — except by wolves and rattlesnakes, of course.

She spent part of a winter high up in the mountains where she frequently got involved in rounding up the cattle on horseback. And she formed a friendship that nearly turned into a romance with a scar-faced desperado,

Katherine Whitehorn

By K

a murderer of the mountains who was shot in a quarrel a year after she left. Mary Kingsley had been too politely brought up to have any proper education: and only when her aged parents no longer needed looking after did she head for Africa and manage to establish herself as an authoritative ethnologist. Plenty of others had seen what she had seen, but the traders wanted only to exploit, the missionaries to stamp out the customs she described. She brought home accounts of cannibalism and fetish with as much relish and as little censure as she brought home her fish in bottles: but her accounts, all the same, ought to be required reading for anyone liable to be soppy about the delights of ‘'traditional" witchdoctor medicine. A few snakebite cures they may have had, but every death was supposedly due to bewitching: so for each one, someone had to be punished: and if twins were born, the babies were always thrown into a bush and the mother usually killed too. What made these maiden ladies take to all this with such gusto? They had some things we do not have — time, for example; there was no nonsense about racing back to the office after three weeks. They had money, though not all that much; and they both had a sort of self-

respect that they wouldn't have called courage, a quality of confidence which doubtless helped deter the gun-slingers from shooting Isabella and stopped the Fan porters from actually eating Mary.

What must have kept them going was the contrast between what they could do once they were abroad and the awful limitations of their dutiful English lives. The stinking fly-ridden mangrove swamp and the icy mountains represented, above all. freedom from that prim little world of the tea-cups. They were true travellers; and the traveller is always, in the end, a Flying Dutchman. What they escaped - as Freya Stark did or any number of travel writers, then and now - was the categorisations of their own society. They evaded their own. without having to conform to anyone else's; especially they didn't have to fit into any of the slots created for women. Such a traveller could ride with the men. parley, with the traders, trek with the hunters, paddle her own canoe. They may have valued their femininity, but they didn’t have to live the life' of the women settlers, or the wives of the chief any more than Frey Stark had to be confined to the harem.

They escaped, but at a price; the price all addicted travellers ultimately pay. If you stay in orbit long enough, you have a terrible re-entry problem; as countless missionaries. V.S.O.s. Peace Corps kids, empire builders, diplomats and foreign correspondents have found.

Mary Kingsley died at 37 in her beloved Africa. Isabella never really settled properly back at home. To travel hopefully is better than to arrive, said Stevenson. He might have added that if you travel enough, it is very hard finally to arrive anywhere at all. (Copyright Observer Syndication Limited)