Plain-talking guide to wine for newcomers

Press, 4 March 1982, Page 12

Plain-talking guide to wine for newcomers

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE

• Considering the mountains of literature which have been written concerning wine over the years, one would imagine that another book would be an also-ran.

But, having just read the “New Zealand Wine Guide 1982” I can assure you that its claim to be “The indispensable guide to wine” is not extravagant.

It is not for the connoisseur and, in his foreword, the chairman of the Wine Institute, Tom McDonald, very neatly pinpoints its objective by saying: “This book does well to reduce a complex subject to simple terms, and will provide a newcomer with the basic knowledge on which to develop a true and lasting appreciation of wine.” Although 15 of its 32 pages are taken up with the introduction and advertisements, the style of the remaining 17 is concise and economical; and so easily understood that it would appear that no professional wine writer has had a hand in it!

As,-for instance: “You can be confident of sending the wine back when it looks cloudy or brown,' smells rotten, tastes of vinegar, metal, cork or wood, and is the wrong temperature.” That’s plain talking — and I like it.

The subject matter takes the reader through from wine-producing areas, an explanation of grape varieties, how to read wine labels, tips on buying, tasting and serving of wine, establishing a wine cellar, wine making, the 1981 National competition results and a 90 word glossary of terms — worth far more than its $1.95 price.

Party with a difference

The format for wine and cheese evenings, whether for entertainment or fund raising, has become rather stereotyped.' The wine (usually bag-in-

box quaffers) is set out along with cheese and water crackers on long trestles, guests help themselves and, when the wine runs out, everyone goes home. A mediocre time has been had by all. The Christchurch public relations consultants, Network Communications, proved their worth in doing a great P.R. job,. both for themselves and for New Zealand wines last week. To celebrate their tenth birthday, they turned on a wine and cheese party with a difference. First,, the wines were chosen to provide an assortment of styles from several different areas by' different producers and to follow one another in a logical sequence so that no one conflicted with the other. : The wines were set out on numbered tables and each guest , was provided with a tasting sheet which listed the wines and provided the awarding of marks out of 20 according to colour, appearance and condition, bouquet, and Jaste and general im■pressicn.. Number one was Montana’s gold award Gisborne Chardonnay 1980. All tastings should include a Chardonnay, France’s most distinguished dry white. Since Montana’s 1976 won a double gold in London, and subsequent vintages have been well up to standard, the 'BO was a natural for this occasion.

Vidal’s white burgundy 1980, although not a true white burgundy in that it is not 100 per cent Chardonnay, was included to provide a contrast.

It is a very full bodied white with perhaps not the finesse of a 100 per cent varietal but, nevertheless an interesting comparison.

Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 1981 (gold award) provided an example of a classical white Bordeaux.

This wine has long been a favourite of mine and, although it had been intended to serve the 1980, the substitution was. not in the least off-putting. In fact, the big fruity bouquet and flavour of the younger wine seemed, to me anyway, to hold out even more promise than "the previous year. An elegant wine. Since the ninth century Chenin Blanc has been the only grape permitted for the fine white wines of Anjou in the Loire Valley. Corbans 1980 was chosen to provide an example of this style. This light, delicate dry white, with its touch of piquancy, is one of Corbans most successful exports to California where it has many times been judged to be superior to the local productions.

Gewurztraminer is ah ex- i otic grape which excels in its f home of Alsace, but local s' winemakers are beginning to, > come to grips with it and , produce a New Zealand style/ of full, mellow and spicy J character. L. i

Penfolds 1980 was chosen ; to exemplify the Kiwi sion and, although .1 know that there are wines more highly rated officially, this one has extremely good balance and would satisfy a wide range of palates. Because of the popularity of any wine. with “Muller Thurgau” on the label, I believe that some winemakers are becoming careless. They ferment, riesling sylvaner, blend in some unfermented juice and, presto! Muller Thurgau. In many cases the back blending is overdone and the wine is too sweet and bland; without character. The last wine, Matua Valley ,1981, has been skilfully handled to produce a satisfyingly full and fruity beverage but with a fresh clean finish which lingers pleasantly after the final swallow.

And the marking? I don’t know — I had to leave before the end of the function. But one chap proudly told me that he had marked all the wines and arrived at a total of 69 for the lot. What did I think of that?

At first I thought he was talking of Canterbury’s" cricket score: but then the penny dropped and, without a great deal of reflection. 1 think he would be well advised to spend $1.95.