Gardeners’ queries

Press, 15 January 1982, Page 11

Gardeners’ queries

Could you help settle,- a dispute? We have a big problem with weeds, especially fathen. One plot which was weeded before Christmas is now just as weedy as before. I prefer to pull up and remove from the section all weeds, especially the flowering ones. My busband likes to dry them off in heaps and then dig them back into the soil, dumping only those which bear mature seeds. What do vou say? R. R. (Chch). Some expert compost makers claim to be able to handle even some of the worst weeds in this wav. However any troublesome weeds which bear viable seed and also any diseased vegetation should be excluded. The foliage of many plants, including perennials. is usually all right for composting, but the root systems of the latter should always be

avoided. It sometimes takes a lot of concentrated and persistent work to clean up a dirty section. Particular care should be taken to prevent any seeding, and to make sure that fence lines and odd corners receive attention. Spraying with suitable herbicides’. especially along the boundaries. is often very worth while. I would be grateful for advice on bow to deal with this pest on hydrangeas flowering very well in a cool position but not affected on leaves and stems. Another bush was cut back last year which was very spotted and black. "Jay” (Chch). The white protrusions on the stems and leaves of these hydrangeas are hydrangea scale, the eggs of which will be hatching at the present time. These pests suck the sap from the plants on which they appear and

can cause very severe debility if not eventually killing them off. Control at this time of the year is not easy, but consists of spraying with white oil or superior oil at summer strength of 1:40. If the plants are in flower, the concentration should be reduced to 1:60, No spraying should be undertaken during bright sunlight or in hot weather. In winter more thorough spraying can be undertaken when lime sulphur or winter oil can be used — the plants should be most thoroughly drenched. Enclosed is a branch off a tree which is slowly dying. What can be done to improve it? Also, I have grown a pineapple from the top. It is very healthy and now two years old. What size container should I finish growing it in, and when should it fruit? Does it require special fertil-

isers? It is in a warm room with sun on it all day. M.N. (Chch). A suggested treatment for vour conifer would be a spray containing copper oxychloride and either acephate or carbryl. This form of die-back is quite a common occurrence with many forms of conifer, and caterpillars are also fairly prevalent although in this particular case it is so far of minor significance. It may take in the vicinity of six years before the pineapple will fruit from crown growth but this could vary considerably depending on circumstances. The plant should be given a final potting up. a pot of about 300 mm should be suitable for it. A good compost of slightly acid nature should be used and pieces of crock and a little roughage placed in the bottom of tne pot; avoid prolonged dry atmosphere.