Up-to-date wallcoverings

Press, 12 November 1981, Page 9

Up-to-date wallcoverings

Refurbishing an old house or supplying individuality to the hew. requires wallcoverings. But how much knowledge and experience is needed for the job to look right? Many a would-be handyperson reels back in a flurry of indecision when confronted with such simple questions as "What do I gel and how do I do it?" The dilemma begins with the availability of products, te'chnical components and what these represent in terms of hanging and wear and tear. According to price, wallpapers move up the quality scale from single sheet (simplex) papers, embossed or surface printed, to heavier high relief textured papers. Many of the above are ready-pasted and. vinyl coated. Where a definite product demarcation line exists (and where there is often a question mark in the mind of the purchaser) is when terminology switches from "wallpapers" — that category already discussed — to "wallcoverings." This term, which was introduced in the early 1970 s to describe more accurately the then new arrival on the’New Zealand manufacturing scene of solid wall vinyl, has now been extended to cover all wall materials. Although assimilated into the national interior decorating way of life, many people still do not realise exactly what is meant by a pure vinyl wallcovering. The product consists of a polyvinyl chlorioe (P.V.C.) coating’ which, during manufacture. is perfectly bonded to a paper surface. This should not be confused with the laminated process, as the P.V.C. coaling becomes an integral part of the paper itself. Wall vinyl is strong, ex-

tremely hardwearing and a dream’to hang. Wall vinyl is also a material which lends itself to particularly fine detail in printing because of its smoothness and freedom from fluff. The Gravure printing process is used (a top quality form of printing) which enables over-colour printing and many interesting design effects to be achieved. When hanging wall vinyl, it is important to ensure the surface is free from any mould spores. It takes a considerable time to dry and must be left undisturbed until the drying process is completed. But when dry. vinyls give a very hard-wearing, scuffresistant and scrubbable surface. Because of its P.V.C. bonding, it is also highly resistant to accidental knocks. When the time comes to re-decorale a surface covered with vinyl, the P.V.C. coating will pull away leaving a lining paper on the surface. This can either be left for re-decoration purposes or stripped off in the usual way. In order to deal with the more modern product, and certainly the most sought after by the public, an outline ol how to hang readypasted wallpapers and vinyl wallcoverings is as follows: Tools needed for the job are a waler box, sponge, straight edge and knife (or sharp scissors), rule, pencil or chalk, sandpaper, stepladder. plumb-line, bucket (for re-filling the water-box) and old newspapers or a towel for soaking up water splashes around the box. Don’t forget to have "smoko” requirements at the ready also. It is good to take a break and gaze at a good job in the making.

Now for action Surface preparation is essential. Thoroughness here means a belter end result. If the previous wallcovering is in good flat (not heavily embossed) condition, stripping is not always necessary. A light sanding down the joins and a coat of size (sizing is always a must) could be all that is necessary. Any damage or flaking, however, requires complete stripping. The preparation work-load is reduced considerably if vinyls have been hung before. as the P.V.C. coating tears off quickly and easily. Sanding down the joins and the application of size is all that is then required. On the other hand, stripping off vinyl-coated coverings is much’more laborious. A good idea is- to scratch across the wall with a wire brush in order to allow the water to penetrate the surface and soften the adhesive so that the paper strips. Where is the best starting place"’ Most decorators agree it is advisable to begin away from the natural source of light and finish in the room’s least obvious position: such as behind a door. As windows and door frames are often out of alignment, use a plumb-line to ensure the first length is absolutely vertical.

Measure out from a window or corner to a spot slightly less than the width of the wallcovering.' There, let the plumb-line hang waiting until it stops moving. Mark the ■ wall in several places along this line thus providing a guide for the first length. After checking rolls to ensure they are from the same batch, measure the length of wall between ceiling and skirting board allowing an additional five centimetres top and bottom ivr final trimming. Cut a corresponding length from the roil and use this as a template to which the others can b,e matched. Next into the action come the old newspapers (or towel) and waler box. These are placed at the base of the wall where hanging is to begin. (Also at this stage make sure the instruction label has been well read.) Two thirds of the box is filled (just above the wire) with luke-warm- water and the first length is loosely rerolled from the bottom with the pattern to the inside. It is then set in the box for tne recommended time (instruction label for this — seconds vary), the top edge is passed under the wire and gradually placed into, position on the wall. Smooth down from the centre out to the edges with the sponge and remove any air bubbles. Next, trim at the scotia and skirting and wipe excess paste off the mouldings. Do not forget to refill the water box after every third length as this keeps the temperature warm enough to activate the paste.