Winter make-up is bold by day and sheer by night

Press, 9 May 1981, Page 10

Winter make-up is bold by day and sheer by night

In vogue

Paula Ryan

Winter make-up, you ask? What’s the difference between winter and summer make-up? In three words it is — strength of colour. As long as we have designers creating new clothes so will our make-up creators design faces to match. And why not? It’s fun trying something different. From summer’s soft pastels we turn the seasonal corner into shades with strength. The look embraces well-defined, bold (not deep) shades set against a pale matt 1 skin. The strongest of this winter’s shades are rich beige, deep russet and sheer

shades of pink. Foundation is definitely paler. We saw the introduction of this delicate porcelain effect last winter, but this flawless, velvet-like complexion is even more in vogue for winter ’Bl. However, in order for it to be successful, it should be matt, never shiny. Obtaining the look is simple — give your face • a little priming first if necessary.

A delicate cream concealer or palest-of-pale foundations dotted and

blended beneath the eyes, on the chin, and around the nose will camouflage nature’s little imperfections. A dampened sponge is excellent for even foundation coverage, but blend it well on to the throat to avoid a line of demarcation. Colours containing a little yellow rather than strong pigments of pink tend to be more successful because they remain “true” in most lights and blend well into the neck. Translucent'or pale powders finish the effect when

dusted on generously and the unwanted excess whisked away by a finer, more delicate brush.

For special occasions try brushing a delicate peach or soft rose blusher under the eyes. It will take away the white look, reduce circles and pick up the eye. ' At night, a little gilded powder to cheekbones and eyes will create a semiexotic sheen, retaining the over-all matt finish. Blusher for winter is not restricted to the face. It rises up the cheekbones to the ear and is swept behind it to the hairline at the back:

Latest shades are sheer pinks, warm rose, and golden sherry. A little warmth to the face will balance the depth of colour on eyes and lips.

Eyes, although dramatic, are not heavy. Shades wing across the eyelid, but are always carefully muted and subtly faded. In the beige tonings, I select colours like cinnamon and dusky brown, and softly blend them out past the eye into the pale copper or wheat shades.

Eye liners are back. But when they are applied they should look like an extension of strong, muted shadow. No hard lines, like those of the sixties. A final touch of charcoal or dark brown kohl looks well with this winter beige look. For the pink look — blend pinks and mauves with a little grey to create a bolder effect. Lashes are given strength and texture by first dusting with powder before applying mascara. Dust, and apply again. Lips are well-defined and carefully shaped and filled-in with brushes. Daytime colours are mauve or russet red. Evening shades are not as strong, favouring pale pinks and quiet lilacs. Very glossy glass-like lips are out. Although a true sheen livens the colour, this can be achieved by firstly using a natural, warm colour, then by highlighting the centre of the lower lip with very pale opaque or frosted lipstick. This mimics lipgloss without being too shiny, and without needing to be reapplied every five minutes.