Good wine news from the north

Press, 28 August 1980, Page 12

Good wine news from the north

Maurice Hunter’s GRAPEVINE

It isn't often that we in the deep south are honoured by a visit from the moguls of the north, but this month two road shows hit town. First, heavy with top brass, came the Montana team.

An audio-visual presentation of tables and graphs told us that wine consumption, currently about 11.5 litres per head of population, is expected to be 15.8 litres by 1986. Almost all of this increase will be in white table wines — consumption of sherry and port will decline and that of red wine will be about the same.

While sipping appreciatively at Marlborough and Benmorven Rieslings, we were assured that the company is gearing itself to maintain its top place of a 27 per cent share of the market with increased plantings over all. but the accent on Marlborough. Apart from the proposed introduction of Blenheim dry white, which presumably will replace Blenheim Chablis, the intention is to concentrate on keeping up with the increasing demand for whites, both in quantity and quality. And, from what I saw in the Glen Innes warehouse last month, there will certainly be no shortage of Blenheimer.

There is, however, a trend towards lighter reds, and in keeping with this a new Fairhall Claret from Marlborough was introduced. Its soft finish and pleasantly fruity quality will appeal to many and, when the temperatures reach a higher level, it would be a good one to serve, lightly chilled, for Sunday elevenses.

The second road show was provided by Penfolds, a company which has not made any great dent in South Island sales so far.

But, according to the general manager, Robert Leitch, and the sales manager, John Patterson, two extrovert Scots, the situation is likely to change. The company is now owned 95 per cent by Frank Yukich (but is shortly to go public) who, with his brother Mate, founded Montana Wines in the early 19605. Shortly after Seagrams acquired an interest in Montana, Frank resigned his positions of managing director and chairman and bought Penfolds (New Zealand) Ltd, from Tooths brewery following that company’s acquisition of the parent Australian company. When he took over in 1976 sales amounted to $1.5 million. For the year ended March, 1980, we were told, they were $8 million.

His declared objective is to be number one produc-

er by 1985. or at least equal number one, and considering his track record with Montana and his performance with Penfolds so far, that doesn’t seem to be at all unlikely. One indication of the road bv which he intends to get there was a remark tossed, almost casually, into the conversation, and which was music to my ears: “We must become more cost efficient.” Despite all the pious assurances, it is an aspect which I believe is not given enough priority at production level. The presentation of wines was cunningly arranged with winecask

riesling, hock and moselle being served first. Essentially quarters, I was glad to find a considerable improvement on last year’s effort.

They are clean, sound wines, although the fruit character is not particularly strong — but one doesn’t expect premium wines in that type of pack.

Then came the good ones, headed by Woodhill Chablis, a blend of 30 per cent chardonnay, some chasselas and a small proportion of unnamed grape, the result being a dryish, fruity wine of good balance and palatability. The formula for Rhinesdale Riseling is being jea-

lously guarded. It is a back-blended riesling with a difference, the blending element being “fermented material,” whatever that can be. As a rule unfermented juice is used. The winemaker. Randy Weaver, has come up with a fresh tasting medium white, but without the heavy overtones of fruit which are usually encountered in a back-blended wine.

The tasting was completed with Chardon, the low alcoholol (7 per cent) sparkling white which has won two silver awards and is making rapid inroads on that section of

the market. The chief wine judge and consultant to Penfolds, John Buck, forecasts a much greater proportion of low. alcohol sparklings in future. ; Incidentally, visitors to Auckland should pay a visit to Penfolds winery restaurant where, in a bright atmosphere with muted background music, a very pleasant hour or two may be spent lunch-

ing on biscuit's, cheese and pate — or a choice of hot dishes — or enjoying art' evening meal accom-* panied, of course, by they wine of the house. The growth-of the wine < industry ,is naturally ( dependant upon the inter-’, est shown by those who.drink the end product, and. it has become increasingly’ evident that there is a thirst, not only for the stuff itself, but for more., serious and detailed infor- j mation about it. To this end a comprehensive course on the sensory evaluation of wine will be held on six succes- ■ sive Monday evenings, ’ commencing September 15. It is designed for anyone interested in wine, from the dedicated professional to the enthusiastic amateur and will cover all the essential aspects, including winemaking techniques. Several practical ses- - sions will demonstrate,, methods to sharpen the senses in detecting andevaluating the various) qualities of wine. Enquiries should bedirected to Dave Parry, Phone 23-8906, or to P.O. Box 8328, Christchurch.

Also of help to wine drinkers is a new Peter Saunders publication, “Wine Glass” magazine which covers many broader aspects as well as specific recommendations by, a tasting panel headed by the Auckland wine judge, Bruce Collard of the Sutton Baron team. /- <

’ If the standard of the first issue is maintained, it will provide readers'; with a great deal of interest and "useful information/ The presentation is excellent and:the articles .axe well written.

The only fault, and it is; one which grates, is the; number of spelling errors.’. It is to be hoped that theproof reading will be more) accurate in subsequent.issues. rf'