Top world rating for N.Z. wine

Press, 11 August 1980, Page 12

Top world rating for N.Z. wine

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE

When Alexis Lichine’s 450,000 word Encyclopaedia of Wines and Spirits ' was first published in 1967, New Zealand’s achievements in wine were dealt with in a scant 350 words.

Lichine said, inter alia, “New Zealand wines bear no exact resemblance to European . . . Many are made from hybrid grapes, since the New Zealand climate is generally too moist for the success of vitis vinifera (classical grapes) 5 :;; . Growing-; comprise about 863 acres (350 hectares) in wine, grapes confined to the North Island.” As the words were being written, Montana Wines were embarking upon what Frank Thorpy, in “Wine in New Zealand.” described as the greatest .crash expansion programme ever undertaken in New Zealand.

In the three years of 1967 - to 1969, Montana added another 120 hectares to the growing area by planting 180,000 vines in the new Mangatangi vineyard, 40 kilometres south of " Auckland, including an impressive range of classical varieties — cabernet sauvignon, pinot Chardonnay, riesling sylvaner, pinot meunier, pinot gris and others.

At the same time arrangements were made for a further 130 hectares to be planted in Gisborne by contract growers. Now, in 1980, Montana’s advertising carries the question: “Where, does the best pinot Chardonnay in the world come from?” followed by the answer that it comes from New Zealand and that Montana make it.

The company’s staff involved were justifiably excited to receive word that all the gdld award chardonnays jn the . International Wine and Snirit competition, held in England, were submitted to a retasting, and that Montana’s ’7B was selected as the best in its class, thus winning a double gold, a first ever for this country.

It is a Gisborne wine, and considering that it takes at least four years for a -.hew vineyard to come into reasohable production, and that'total entries for the competition numbered nearly 600 from 30 countries, that’s progress in anyone’s - language.

As commendable as the award itself is that, at the time of. the news release, the wine was in general distribution. This was no private bin wine produced especially for exhibition, ana those wine buffs who were quick off the mark were able to add a few bottles to their cellar collections. It didn’t take long to .clear the shelves. With memories of the struggle it was to get even a smell of the cork of classical varieties a few years ago. I was prompted to review the range of premium wines now on.open sale. I was amazed to be able to compile a very much off-the-cuff list of no fewer than 25, all from grapes of which, until a couple of years or so ago, I had been able only to read.

. There are Six bearing the once hallowed name of cabernet sauvignon, all of a high standard and from 1976 onwards.

Pinot chardonnay was in the same class but today there are at least three — Corbans, Villa Maria (a very creditable effort), and Montana’79. Excellent pinot noirs are available from Corbans and Montana, a subtle difference being provided by Corbans being matured in American oak and the

Montana version in Limous oak. Two exotic spicy gewurztraminers come from the South Island, Montana and- Weingut Seifried, and one from Cooks in Te Kauwhata. . Also. from Cooks is a commendable Pinot meunier, being light, evenly balanced and palatable, with good wood quality — a red with a difference. Corbans persistence with Chenin blanc has paid off to the extent that the wine has met with a ready reception in California, in Spite of the variety being widely grown in that area. Montana’s Marlborough Sauvignon blanc is a wine with which I hope they persevere. My feeling is that it could, when it becomes better known, oust the prestigious Chardonnay in popularity. \ Just as Chardonnay produces the best : white burgundies, so sauvignon blanc produces the best Bordeaux whites. The Marlborough location seems to suit it admirably, resulting in a distinctively fruity bouquet and flavour with good balance and a firm, dry finish. There are too few ■of this quality about.

Add to these the progress made in the handling of riesling sylvaner, pinotage and . the caber-net-pinotage blends and it all adds up to the fact that it would be a very fussy wine drinker who could not find a premium local wine satisfactory to his or her palate. One good point could be that the reason why such a choice is available is that the price is keeping them on the shelves.