Exploring by bus off the North’s beaten track

Press, 6 May 1980, Page 20

Exploring by bus off the North’s beaten track

BARBARA BRAKE,

of Wellington, writes of her extensive tour in the North Island by

bus —many buses, in fact.

“What, you went to Ruatahuna by bus?” my friends asked incredulously. (Where is Ruatahuna anyway?..ln, the Ureweras, halfway between Rotorua and Wairoa.)

Yes/ id fact, 1 went by. bus to many more places off the beaten track on this trip aroiirid the North Island. Although no doubt not economical for families, touring by regular bus services is certainly worth considering for one or two people, especially in this age of expensive petrol and closed petrol stations. Arid the saving in nervous strain from crowded roads at holiday time more than makes up for any slight inconvenience. So, where did I go? First, from Wellington to Auckland. The modern, airconditioned, comfortable bus left Wellington at 8.30 on a trip punctuated by stops for morning tea at Levin, lunch at Turangi, and afternoon tea at Lake Karapirp. We reached Auckland at 8.30 p.m. .. . The secret of .bus travel is to • have one or two cases that you can easily carry: a back pack, with perhaps one small suitcase, is even better. After, a sunny day relaxing at Takapuna, I took the Road Services bus from Auckland to Taupiri, on the main road to Hamilton in the dairying heart of the Waikato. After several days sunbathing, swimming, catching up on family news and eating enormous meals, it was on to Coromandel to see the peninsula. First a bus to Hamilton, then another

to Paeroa, a third to Thames, and a fourth to Coromandel. At this point I must say that what impressed me most on my travels was the helpfulness of the bus drivers; they went out of their way to provide information and to help with baggage, even stopping the bus at convenient spots for photographs. In fact, there was only one flaw in all of my travels — no bus or any other form .of public transport to get me from Coromandel to Whitianga (except the long way, via Thames). But fortunately there were plenty of trucks and lorries willing.to give lifts to needy travellers and I was soon enjoying my week in the Whitianga area. Then it was by bus again down the coast to Thames, Tauranga, and Rotorua. My next destination was Ruatahuna, from where I planned a three-day walk in the Urewera bush country. The bus was already 10 minutes late leaving Rotorua when the driver asked if we would mind waiting another five minutes for a family which had failed to turn up. If they missed, he explained, they would ’have to wait two days for another. I took advantage of the delay to get my case .out and go to the,restroom to change — the weather had turned cold. The family eventually showed up and we were on our way.

The road is sealed only as far as Murupara; after that the old ramshackle bus (no dpubt specially provided for the route) shook and rattled its way over the ruts, potholes, and stones as it wound its way around and up the Ureweras. The scenery was beautiful, with bushclad mountains on either side of the road, and rarely, a solitary house. The scenery more than compensated for the state of the road (and bus). An old Maori. appeared from an isolated house to ask our driver, who stopped at his signal, if he had a parcel for him. No. Was he really expecting a parcel, or did he just want someone to talk to?, Three days after my trek, I joined the bus again and continued to Wairoa through magnificent scenery, with no sign of human habitation. Lake Waikaremoana, even in the rain, was breathtakingly beautiful and I vow to return one day and do the trek round the lake—or maybe just laze at the hotel.

Peaceful Wairoa appealed, and I decided to stay there a couple of days. Then it was back on to the buses for the sectors to Gisborne and Ruatoria. The road north of Gisborne is practically on the beach and the massive

breakers thundering alongside the bus. were most impressive. Tolaga Bay was beautiful and we stopped in the township where everyone, including the'bus driver, got off to buy ice-creams. The bus 'went only as far as Ruatoria that day and I stopped at the local pub. which served for dinner roast wild p.ork and puha. That evening there was a farewell to members of the local basketball team, and people had gathered from miles around for a “suitable” function in the lounge. 1 was invited to join in: the singing was enjoyable, and the atmosphere, friendly and animated, without excess. Next day the bus continued its journey north around East Cape, past the delightful Maori settlements of Te Araroa, Waihau Bay. Te Kaha and on to Opotiki and Ohope. But my holidays were running out. Next day I bussed to Whakatane and then to Rotorua, from where it was a pleasant day’s trip back to Wellington. I did not have time to go to Taranaki or North Auckland. Next year, perhaps. Or will it be the South Island, with its impressive mountain scenery? Wherever, one thing is certain — I’ll be travelling by bus.