The workaday wines that may get overlooked

Press, 6 December 1979, Page 14

The workaday wines that may get overlooked

A frequently worked comedy situation features a politician addressing his constituents when, from the unruly element at the back of the hall, comes a cry “What about the workers?” To which the politician replies “What about the workers, indeed, sir.” Well, what about the workers? While all the gold and silver award winners are jumping up and down in great excitement at their success, and while the more serious minded wine-drinkers are dashing from point to point clutching the press notices in their hot little hands, mostly to no avail, there is a serious danger that the workers are being overlooked. Worse still, there is a serious danger that the erstwhile attitude that unless a wine bears an imported label it is not worth having is being replaced with the attitude that, unless a wine has won a gold or silver award, it is not worth bothering with. Take rieslings, for instance. When I first became actively involved in selling New Zealand wines 11 years ago, there were only two rieslings on the market — McWilliams Cresta Dore and Corbans Riverlea Riesling. All the rest of the whites were rubbishy hybrids. But today, holding its own against all the variations of riesling sylvaner, Cresta Dore is still there, as well and faithfully made as it ever was, sound and reliable. Similarly with Corbans. The name has been changed to Sylvaner Riesling but the basic principles remain; meticulous attention to production of a good clean wine which will please most and give offence to none. More recently we have seen the emergence of others which I feel deserve more attention than they get, such as Vidals Mt. Erin Riesling. It surprises me that this wine was not better rated in the 1979 competition. Since I am not a qualified wine judge I must bow to superior ability, but one thing I know: higher placed wines sit on

the shelf while Mt. Erin moves steadily out. The same comments apply to Montana Benmorven and Montana Blenheimer, without doubt the best volume sellers of the lot. Although winning only bronze awards, they have an obvious appeal to the majority of consumer palates. Wine drinkers may have forgotten that the trail blazer, in the “beverage” wine class was Corbans Liebestraum, originally

promoted as the wine to drink any time with any kind of food, or maybe as a drink for elevenses instead of sloshing back beer. It was probably responsible for changing Kiwi drinking habits to nr> small degree. Two other recent developments which must not be overlooked are Montana Blenheim Chablis and Corbans Riesling Hock. Both are well made, clean dry whites. I am not aware of the blends but I do know that they are pleasant, well rounded wines without any of the acidic qualitv which spoils so many of our whites through poor cellar technique or the use of hybrid juice. Their use as party or barbecue wines is enhanced because of the 1.7litre carafe of Blenheim Chablis and, in the case of Corbans Riesling Hock, 2-litre carafes and 4-litre casks. In a similar category is Ormond Hassendean which, this year, is marked in three sizes, 750m1, 1.7-litre carafes and 4.5-litre casks. It is a marked improvement on the 1978 production, a good easy drinking wine for anytime. Ormond Chandos also comes in the same pack sizes and will meet the demand for those whose palate requires a sweeter style.

Turning to the reds, Montana Pinotage is always a safe bet. It is light, clean, well rounded and consistent, always reliable. In the Cabernet-Pinotage class I have two favourites. First is Corbans Claret, Although it undoubtedly improves in the bottle and 1 prefer vintages with a little age, the more recent ones can be rounded off more quickly by decanting earlier arid ensuring that it is served well up to room temperature, a rule which applies, incidentally, to all younger reds. Mv second choice is Ormond Cabernet-Pinotage, lighter in body than the Corbans, but a nicely balanced red. Lack of advertising is probably responsible for its not being as well known, but those who are looking for reliability will seek it out. Considering now the fortified wines which usually accompany the nuts and nibbles at the end of a meal, I must again bow to superior knowledge in expressing surprise that three of my favourites did not fare better than bronze awards. Collard Brothers Tawny Port is one. This is a blend of five to eight-year-old wood aged ports, originally called Vintage Port. Some fussy little man in the Department of Health insisted on the change of name because, being blended, it was not possible to put a year on the label.

There Is also Montana Tawny Port, a delightfully rich and smooth wine which is bound to make the taste buds sit up and take notice. Finally we have Montana Muscatel. This style of wine is one for which I have never been able to muster much enthusiasm. All previous brews have given the impression that a rather uninterested winemaker has taken some juice for which he had no other use, loaded it with sugar, and called it a muscatel. The Montana version is completely different. The full and generous fruit quality counteracts the sweetness in a way which is little short of magnificent. One glass is never enough for me. Chase the gold and silver award winners bv all means. We are all curious to find out what it is which appeals so much to the panel of experts which judges the quality of our wines each year. Just remember the workers — the backbone of the industry, always reliable and, more important, always obtainable.

ON THE GRAPEVINE

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Maurice Hunter