She says . . .

Press, 11 October 1979, Page 17

She says . . .

Several weeks ago I recounted the warnings against the use of car waxes we were given when we had the family car repainted. This brought several queries from readers, so to settle the matter I wrote to one of the major manufacturers of car paints, on the reasoning that if anyone knew how to look after paint, it should surely be the people who make it.

The advice can be. broken down into two sections: washing and polishing. “Factory-painted” (i.e. new) vehicles in New Zealand today are painted in either acrylic enamel or acrylic lacquer, says the technical service and refinish training officer of Dulux New Zealand, Ltd, Mr R. F. Marshall. Neither of these finishes needs polishing (with the slightly-abrasive type of liquid car polish) for two to three years or longer, he says. In fact, the best treatment for the paintwork is regular washing and use of the chamois leather. Many motorists make good use of commercial car-washes for satisfactory results, he says.

All washing — like all polishing or waxing — should be done in the shade. The car should first be hosed, under the guards first, then on the panels, to remove grit. Then it should be washed with warm water to which has been added a mild soap, and kerosene at the rate of 500 mis per 20 litres (a pint to four gallons — or about half a pint in the average bucket). Mr Marshall strongly recommends the use of kerosene. The ’ soapy water and kerosene solution should be applied to the car with a soft rag, then hosed off with clean water. Finally the car should be leathered with a chamois. A bucket of clean water should be kept handy to rinse out the chamois from time to time. Oil or tar on paintwork should be liberally swabbed with kerosene, and then with the water-kerosene mixture. We’ve tried Mr Marshall’s water-kerosene washing method, and the results are excellent. Next week: advice on waxing and polishing. — Barbara Petre.