Dining out on the heather

Press, 17 July 1979, Page 12

Dining out on the heather

The Comirionsense Scots Cookery Book. By Gordon Hay. Angus and Robertson. 115 pp. Index $7.95. The Commonsense Indonesian and Malaysian Cookery Book. By Ella Mei Wong. Angus and Robertson. 119 pp. Index $8.95. (Reviewed by Lorna Buchanan) Scottish cooking has a great dea! more to offer than porridge and haggis. This collection of clear, straightforward recipes lures adventurous palates from “bawd dree” (hare soup) to a fearsome drink called “an old Highland liqueur”: a variety of spices, peel, dried fruit, and sugar immersed in about Sl5 worth of whisky. The accounts of the r.ames of some recipes are alone worth having. The author finds several derivations for “cullen skink” which turns out to be smoked haddock with mashed potatoes (even though skink in Scotland otherwise means meat off the leg of a bullock). The most likely derivation seems to be from the name of Dr William Cullen, a lecturer in chemistry at Glasgow who. about 1740, invented cream of tartar and became a great gourmet and advocate of stewing. In fact, this is a book of diversions: “bashed neeps” are diced swedes, “clapshot” is swede and potatoes, “chappet tatties” are mashed potatoes, and “neep brose” is swede and batmeal. Other recipes include the traditional black bun of Hogmanay, delicious pheasant dishes (and the birds are available now’ in

I New Zealand shops), andi the grand “potted head.”! an ox head simmered fori six hours. The result is i ■■ ' i- ' !

said to make a giant jelly of about 8 kilogrammes which sells well at charity bazaars. I One idea especially worth trying is treacle candy, pulled or twisted in the old way by two people holding on to each end, or thrown as a rope over e hook on the wall and' pulled till it is elastic and , shiny. * The second new addition in this cheap, colourful cooking series explains that Indonesian and Malaysian food, as well as havings their distinctive local elements, is an intermingling of Chinese, Indian, Eurasian, and European dishes. Typically Malaysian recipes are indicated in the text and a glossary is provided of Indonesian and Malaysian cooking terms. Many of the recipes are cooked with coconut milk or cream instead of stock, and coconut oil is also frequently used in Malaysia. Alternative ingredients are given where New Zealand or Australian cooks might have trouble buying what they need; but there is really no substitute for the chillies which bob up in many dishes. These need to be treated with great respect. Nothing is left to chance. The details of the recipes are clearly set out,

even at the risk of a little repetition in, for instance, the 10 different ways of preparing rice. ! For those determined to t be “authentic” there is an account of how to use the hand as a scoop, rolling the food with thumb against fingers before popping it in the mouth. Among the more exciting tastes are seven varieties of sambal, and satay sauce recipes which would not shame a Singapore street stall. Both books succeed admirably in making unexpected foods sound and look as though an experiment will be justified. The results are well worth a little time, effort and risk.

A VIEW OF BOOKS