Porcelain look in make-up brings back style of 1940s

Press, 11 July 1979, Page 15

Porcelain look in make-up brings back style of 1940s

Fashion this winter took on a dramatic change, and it appears that next winter will do the same. The square shoulders, draping fine wools, seamed stockings, and rolled hair styles as worn by Mrs Wallis Simpson in the TV series of “Edward and Mrs Simpson” are very much the look for now. To enhance these simple lines in dresses and suits make-up should be in keeping — feminine and sophisticated. More than anything, it is the hairstyle that influences changes in makeup techniques. Generally, whenever hair goes up or is worn very short the face calls for a more dramatic look to balance, the severeness. I've formulated a simple make-up technique to match this 1940 s influence in dressing. THE FACE 1. Apply moisturiser and leave for 10 minutes to dry. 2. Apply a small amount of pale foundation (slightly paler than your normal colour.) Allow to dry. 3. Appy a second layer of foundation, this being your normal colour. Again allow to dry. Using this method you are not applying any more foundation than usual — you are simply using half the

quantity of each colour for each application. The secret is in allowing both colours to dry.

4. Using a face brush, apply powder blush to the SIDES of your cheekbones. Suggested colours: Mary Quant — Blushbaby, Caramel; or Helena Rubinstein: Fresh cover, Vervino. 5. Finish with a light dusting of translucent powder applied with a soft face brush. THE EYES

1. Over the entire lid area apply a pale pink eye gloss or powder shadow. Blend this softly up to the eye brow — that is, stronger on lid, reducing in tone as you move upwards. Caramel or bronze can be used in place of the pink if preferred.

2. On the outer third of the eye-lid and brow-bone area apply two moody powder eye' shadows with a small sponge applicator. Suggested colours are grey with plum, or brown with mid or dark charcoal. Using a finger tip, blend these colours upwards towards the .eye brow finishing with a very .soft subtle colour at the eye-brow.

3. Apply the same two powder shadows with a fine brush underneath the eyes among the bottom lashes. Apply one colour, then the second directly on top, making the line

wider on the outer eye area, narrowing inwards. 4. As an optional additional effect apply kohl pencil or cream inside the rim of lids to intensify the eye colour.

5. Apply mascara to upper and lower surfaces of lashes, making sure to cover sun-bleached tips.

6. The whites of your eyes should be glistening and white, not yellow or red. If they are not. seek the advice of your chemist as to a good eye-drop or lotion. THE LIPS

1. Outline your lips with a red lip pencil. 2. Fill in the lip area with your selected colour using ' a lip brush. Suggested fashion colours: Helena Rubinstein — Shin Life, Fine Wine; or Mary Quant — Rose Wine.

3. Apply a little lip gloss to complete the porcelain look to your make-up.