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Press, 13 June 1979, Page 11

Major Bunbury's Restaurant, Oxford Victualling Co.. Cnr Colombo and Chester Sts, Phone 797-148,797-150. Not so long ago most hotels would have regarded the dining-room as a necessary appendix to the “house,” catering mostly for house guests, and serving for main course the traditional roast dinner. This did not mean a low standard: in fact, this type of dining had a kind of old-world charm that was quiet, refined, and relaxing, and would still have a niche in the dining-out scene. But many hotels have discovered that the restaurant can be a profitable operation in its own right, and have set out to capture a larger slice of the market; Lion Breweries, with the Cobb and Co restaurants and such establishments as the Oxford and Wellington’s “1860,” is in the van of this movement. Major Bunbury’s Restaurant differs from the Cobb and Co restaurants in having the mouthwatering goodies on display: clients file past a long row of bains marie, and may select their food by sight if they have not been able to make a choice from the clearly displayed menu above the food bar. The range of the menu is quite good, with sufficient variety—also in price—from braised sausages at 95c, through chili con carne, to roast pork or beef at §2.95. The roasts are carved to order The whole operation is remarkably efficient, but it is fun: a great variety of condiments and sauces is available on the sideboard. You help yourself quickly to exactly what you want, then find a table to enjoy your food at leisure. We chose roast pork and roast beef; both were very tender and succulent, and were served with roest potato, gravy, and vegetables. Extras such as sauteed mushrooms may be had on request. The restaurant, of course, is fully licensed: it also serves wine by the glass. There is a choice of three or four cold desserts, such as cheesecake, and fruit salad. We had a nice bit of apfel strudel. The coffee is beautiful, and about the best we have had out for a long time: hot and strong enough “to make a man forget his poverty, and remember his misery no more.” Before dinner we had a few drinks in the Oxford's pleasant surroundings, and we found this style of dining rather fun and a nice change from more formal dining. Dinner for two, with dessert, coffee, and two glasses of wine, came to 59.45, and was good value for money.

to create this atmosphere, but they onty succeeded to make it look like this during the day. After dinner at night, the overriding impression one comes away with is of an Antarctic whiteness.

The management takes pride in the white tablecloths—understandably: it is a most pleasant experience to dine at a nicely-set table. But we found the atmosphere at night clinical, like eatin a hospital operating theatre. It is hard to put one’s finger on—maybe it is the lighting at night, the place certainly feels different at lunch-time.

Brooke’s serve a set menu at a set price of §10: the food is French cuisine. The restaurant has a 8.Y.0. licence.

For starters we had the chef’s pate, and an avocado. The pate was good, and a very large helping: the avocado was excellent, and we could have eaten lots of it. The French onion soup was nicely served with croutons and cheese, the vegetable soup was dark, creamy, and delicious. For main course we tried the steak provencale and the chicken burgundy. The steak was nice, with the traditional sauce of onions, tomato and pepper, but the chicken lacked the flavour that should come from the burgundy sauce. Steak and chicken were served with potato baked in the jacket and topped with sour cream, and vegetables— the carrot and the cauliflower were disappointing. For dessert we had boysenberry flan and apple crumble, both excellent. Portion sizes were just right for us. Brooke’s are open for lunch from Tuesday to Friday and for dinner from Wednesday to Saturday. On Saturday, Monday, and Tuesday they can cater for business luncheons and private functions.