GARDENING

Press, 23 June 1978, Page 5

GARDENING

By

M. Lusty

. ..-ials desired for fruit production should be lightly pruned or left for growth. When pruning back it nay be better to remove complete branches rather than make a lot of small cuts. Spurs should be thinned out according to the tree. Leaders should be pruned according to their rate of growth Jout only if growth is required of them. Branch removal should be instituted without hesitation where disease, position, overcrowding or intervining dictates such. In the case of biennial bearing thin the fruit in the “on” year, encourage in the “off” year by more specialised pruning. Principles: 1. Hard cutting produces strong growth, all else being equal. A light tipping (i.e. the removal of a small portion from the end of last year’s growth) over an entire tree, will promote more vigour than will the removal of a large limb. 2. The more frequently a limb divides, the weaker the resultant growth becomes. 3. Upright growth tends to grow strongly and is less inclined to develop fruit buds. 4. Horizontal growth develops fruit buds more readily and does not grow as strongly. o. Sap flow ig best to rruiting wood kept close to the permanent framework of the tree and fruit is less inclined to damage, when close in. 6. Continuous heavy fruiting tends to slow down tree growth. 7. Aim to keep a balance between wood growth and crop nroduction 8. Protect saw cuts and damaged portions of the limb structure with a sealing compound to prevent the entry of disease and to encourage more rapid healing. Summer prune to restrict growth and assist in fruit bud initiation. Winter pruning encourages growth and enables general structural management to be carried out.