FASHION AND BEAUTY

Press, 23 June 1978, Page 5

FASHION AND BEAUTY

| By

Paula Ryan

Buyers crowding the salons to watch the recent Lallan collections saw a turning point this season — Italian designers came forth with new assurance. Their already renowned sense of colour, combined with inventive fabrics and creative knitwear has brought Italy enthusiastic praise. This season superfluous detail was set aside to make a real fashion statement; and Milan, in just a few seasons, has become an important fashion centre. Gianni Versace probably expressed the essence of the collections with a T-shape with wide, extended shoulders. Versace’s collection looked long and slim. Sweater-coats and jackets with shoulder padding fitted comfortably over easy tunics and long sweaters. There was a military lock running through the collections, although it was not so much an army' look as along the lines of the officer’s dress uniform at the turn of the 19th century. This “military” theme is rather severe in cut, so that fox and sable scarves were often introduced as softening effects.

Mjine oi iu V imtshes used by the designers to express this '‘military” look were: double-breasted buttoning, tabs or epaulettes on shoulders, wide leather belts, high officer collars, or mandarin collars, Russian fur toques, flat-heeled high boots, and braiding or ribbon running down the legs of widely cut trousers with front pleats. Colours were quiet, subdued. shaded subtley and often muted. The pale violets to ruddy reds were the most outstanding. Old rose, faded violet, mauve, mulberry, raspberry, wine red, beetroot, plum, and purple were shown again and again. Also featured were ochre - shades, mustards and honeys. The greens were all dulled like khaki, olive, and mud green. The browns went from clean brown to chestnut, tobacco, cognac, rust and cinnamon. Lots of black was seen as were the naturals — the oatmeal shades going from cream to caramel. And now and then R.A.F. blue along with some cherry reds were featured. Fabrics for day showed houndstooth and shepherd checks, Tweeds were Irish, with Harris, Shetland and herringbone. The soft wools — cashmere, angora and mohair (with lots of brushing) — were most popular. The fabric patterns seen were elongated checks and squares, large plaids — all discreetly coloured — along with traditional tartans. For evening the big fabrics were iridescent taffetas, silk, crepe de chine, cloque for blister effects) and lame. Italy’s 10 major fashion “statements” for winter ' 1978/79: 1. The blazer-skirt combination where jackets are broadened at the shoulders and teamed with wool, tweeded, unpressed pleated skirts. 2. The shaped short spencer worn with skirts or straight-legged trousers.