Kitchens at sea

Press, 25 February 1978, Page 17

Kitchens at sea

A Taste of the Sea. By Theodora Fitzgibbon. David and Charles Publishers. 104 pp., index. $10.55. Joseph Conrad wrote: “Of all the books produced since the most remote ages of human talents and industry those only that treat of cooking are, from a moral point of view, above suspicion. The intention of every other piece of prose may be discussed and even mistrusted: but the purpose of a cookery book is one and unmistakable. Its object can conceivably be no other than to increase the happiness of mankind.” Quoting Conrad gives Theodora Fitzgibbon a chance to provide a recipe for baked beans, shipboard style, in the manner of the 1890 s; and to print a picture of Joseph Conrad on the deck of the Torrens with his five apprentices on the run between London and Sydney. This most unusual nautical cookbook mixes up early photographs, snippets of maritime history, and a bewildering variety of recipes. Thus, a picture of passengers being landed by basket at Walvis Bay, South-West Africa, in 1898 is followed

by recipes for “banana fool” (bananas, eggs, cream, and brands ) and baked bananas (with sugar, orange coconut, and rum), two popular dishes tor passenger ships <>n the run round West Africa from Europe Sydney Harbour, in 1870. leads to "barramundi macadami." a dish which combines the firm, well flavoured flesh of a barramundi fish with the only edible nuts native to Australia

The dramatic picture reprinted on this page is an excuse for a discussion of Cornish piracy, which in turn leads to recipes for pirate drinks including: Punch: A bottle of Jamaica rum (preferably smuggled) and half a bottle of cognac mixed with lemon juice, sugar, a dash of Benedictine, and some boiling water. (And a cautionary note that this quantity needs to be watered down with about two litres of water). Mahogany: Two parts gin and one part treacle beaten together very well. Traditionally it is drunk with soused or marinated pilchards, called “fair maids.”

In all, a diverting book for those who cook, those who enjoy the results of cooking, and those who iove the sea. — LORNA BUCHANAN.