February fruit and ornamentals

Press, 17 February 1978, Page 8

February fruit and ornamentals

GARDENING

By

M. Lusty

Now that bush .nd cane fruit have completed their cropping they should be given a thorough spraying to control a variety of pests and diseases. A mixture of copper oxychloride, benlate, captan, or zineb, with carbaryl and menazon or maldison, should be applied. In the case, of black currants and raspberries some of the old wood can be removed, but this is not really essential until winter. Persistence in maintaining good control over fruit troubles should not be overlooked. There is little point in being diligent throughout the year, only to let up before the completion of the harvest. Some diseases, such as brown rot of stone fruit, can occur even after the fruit has been picked; leafroller caterpillars are always about and codling moth enjoys a nearly ripe

apple just as much as we do. With the ripening of top fruits well under way a little care in harvesting can extend the season and also provide better fruit. There is no substitute for fully tree-ripened fruit and where storage is not entertained or feasible because of the variety, then fruit can be picked, progressively. Those intended for storage must be picked before maturity, or keeping qualities are impaired. Fruit should not be snatched or pulled from the tree, nor should it then be dropped into a container. Remove it by grasping it firmly and lifting ■ upwards; ripe or nearly ripe fruit will part quite easily from the tree at the junction of stem and branch.

ORNAMENTALS— Bulb planting can begin this month; such early

flowering kinds as crocuses, freesias, and bulbous irises should be among the first to go in. Sweet peas and Iceland poppies for winter flowering can be sown immediately, while successional

sowings of calendulas will provide a late autumn display of colour. The latter should be sown in boxes and transplanted when about 40mm high, or be sown directly where they are to flower, as applies to poppies and sweet peas. The finest blooms of chrysanthemums and dahl-

ias are obtained through disbudding, a procedure carefully pursued by those who wish to exhibit their flowers. Disbudding provides for long stems and single but outstanding blooms. It is a simple task which involves nothing more than the careful pinching out of all but the central bud. Removal of soent flower heads is often regarded as a somewhat unnecessary and time-consuming chore. Yet not only does it give the garden a more caredfor appearance, but it reduces the demand on the plant’s reserves and can prolong the flowering period if done promptly. Cuttings of many plants may be made now’. These include such familiar garden subjects as abelia, hydrangea, callistemon, and choisya. Also, now is the time to do budding. Apart from providing the possi-

bilities of establishing known varieties and forms on seedling ornamental stock it can also be applied to a host of top fruits. It is essential to select only the healthiest young shoots of pencil thickness and to practise making bud slips before attempting to work over stock — it is a task which looks more simple than it really is. Maintain a watchful eye over roses: do not allow them to dry out, remove spent flower heads, do not hoe deeply around plants, and keep full control of pests and diseases. Lawn preparation can begin now, so that early grass establishment can be obtained. Attempt to gain good control of all perennial weed problems at this stage, but check any weedkillers before using them, as some can severely restrict land use for someitveeks. For instance, Amitrol-T is slower acting and more residual than glyphosate.

Potted cyclamen can be repotted now. Use a good potting compost, a good selection of which is now readily available at all nurseries. Water well after potting and place in a cool moist situation.