15 years with a name in gourmet

Press, 17 February 1978, Page 8

15 years with a name in gourmet

By

NANCY CAWLEY

Overcooking food is certainly a failing among New Zealand cooks, says a Christchurch cooking expert Mrs Barbara Ryan. This was so especially in commercial catering. “Imagine a restaurant putting frozen peas on at 9 o’clock for noon, with baking soda to give them colour.” She shudders.

Barbara Ryan is returning to cooking lecturing and demonstrating after a lapse of 10 years. She is taking her own excellent advice on women making the most of their talents and qualifications when their children are older.

“I feel it is important that women come back into jobs — but without sacrificing their families.” lies.”

With two other lecturers she is continuing last year’s work in running the evening classes in gourmet cooking at Hagley High School. The 16-place sessions have proved most popular and now have a waiting list.

A home economics graduate from Auckland

Teachers’ College, Barbara Ryan was demonstrating

for Meat Packers (NZ), Ltd, at the 1963 Food Fair in Christchurch when she met the television cooking personality Graham Kerr. He was co-ordinating the fair, which was held it. conjunction with the Industries Fair, and was impressed with the ability

of Mrs Ryan (then B' bara Malcolm). The meeting led to a jc strator in Kerr’s newb established National Foot and Wine Centre, in Cub; Mall, Wellington. Supported by 28 firms the centre tested such products as flour and cooking-oil, and held cooking demonstrations twice a day. As well as handling the demonstrations Barbara Ryan set up Graham Kerr’s television cooking programmes.

Preparing and cooking food in front of a crowd can be nerve-wracking to begin with, said Barbara Ryan, but confidence comes with experience. Small mistakes or hitches must be covered up — a burnt finger or a dropped spoon are ignored. When it is something more drastic you just laugh it off, and advise your audience to do it the correct way. Mrs Ryan feels that the television cooks Hudson and Halls are excellent, possessing the relaxed

style that is essential in such a programme. Barbara Ryan defines gourmet cooking as being “cooking for special meals or entertaining,” but her course at Hagley High School works up from the basics.

Students bring their own pre-arranged ingredients and cook a three-course meal, or part thereof, from recipes provided by Mrs Ryan. A m o u t h-watering sample lists grilled grapefruit, beef curry and side dishes and raspberry parfait. Last year some ate the results of their culinary efforts on the spot, but most took them home for a late supper. Pastry-making, sauces and the making of “a pro-

per stock” are also taught. Students learn about the different cuts of meat and how to cook them. “People tend to think that gourmet cooking is difficult and time-con-suming,” said Barbara Ryan, “but when they get

down to it, they find it is simple and satisfying.” She emphasises planning ahead as being necessary for successful meals, together with consideration of nutrition, cost, and the tastes of those who are to eat the meal. Although they are improving, Mrs Ryan feels that New Zealand cooks are reluctant to try new foods and methods of cooking. Fish should be used more. There are many varieties and “beautiful ways” to cook them, she said. Discriminating shopping is the cornerstone of haute cuisine. Barbara Ryan says proudly that she has had rows with all her local butchers, and feels that if more shoppers took back unsatisfactory goods, or rejected them in the first place,

service from retailers would improve. Barbara Ryan has taken the gospel of good food preparation beyond the classroom walls. Just over a year ago, she and a neighbour organised a progressive dinner among 40 nearby houses. It was primarily an exercise in community consciousness, but the delighted participants, after all helping in the preparations in some small way, wined and dined at $5 per head until the small hours of the morning.