Spiralling through the Rockies to Alberta

Press, 4 October 1977, Page 43

Spiralling through the Rockies to Alberta

LES BLOXHAM

continues his journey across Canada

was ™‘.v to more than 2000 ft up in the V a °±X’ MO , mi,es ea ”t of stSv T’ and still climbing P^*wiA Wards Kickin £ Horse the r±« h W ?V ld see u * across R® v E Ontln^ ntal Divide of the Z™*! > nd into the beautiful western fringes of Alberta.

«r Mm Y t a . rS > 5 8 2 i when the power of condnent U ed J 1 Canad ‘an across the a S °P wa s made at RevelStODS thl™ “ L T ° day 1116 tra ‘ n Stiil Refuelling k , t 0 ta ke on dieseline. about l ™ B four iocomotives takes ! rhL^T nUtes ’ afford >ng early risers * for a walk and - in our case. * or two °f alpiae air spiced "cu at, 01113 of burning pine. ♦ S °« Bunl *ght shed lustre across m!.!2 PS of the surrounding Monashee * *°4P t^ il ? s > but the frontier-like town crad.ed in the valley below would not be warmed for some hours. , were to be more fortunate tnough, for when the train eventually began its climb eastwards it left the shadow of the valley and we were soon basking in the sun that flooded our mobile glasshouse. Off with the heaters; on with the air conditioning . . . The track ahead glistened like a never-ending ribbon of polished steel, guiding our train through a landscape of forested slopes that rose to peaks patch-worked in grey and white The winter had long passed, but there was still an abundance of snow clinging to the scree and rocky faces. Far above it all a jet cut a lone vapour trail westwards, leaving it to linger against the vivid blue sky. We were in the dining car finishing breakfast when we made our final crossing of the Columbia River. It reminded me rather of the upper reaches of the Waimakarjri — only where were the jet boats? The Columbia, however, has a much longer course to foltow from its source to the Pacific and at the point where we left it, the river Still had more than 600 miles to flow in

a south-westerly direction across the United States border and Washington before it would meet the sea. We were now getting close to the main divide and the two spiral tunnels that had to be driven through the mountains 50 years ago to overcome one of C.P. Rail’s toughest obstacles — the Big Hill incline. When the line was built in the early 1880 s it dropped 900 ft in only four miles from Kicking Horse Pass to the foot of Mount Stephen. Trains successfully handled the steep gradiant for 24 years, but as loads increased the need for an easier grade became essential.

sant change from the first tunnel’s long tight turn to the left. I made a note in my diary: “C.P. obviously keen to ensure passengers unwind . . .” Banff, our destination, was now only an hour away; an easy downhill run from Kicking Horse Pass. Genuine regret at having to leave the train was eased only by reports! had heard that the journey beyond Calgary became increasingly monotonous.

Over the years I have have travelled extensively by rail — from Los Angeles to New York and down to Florida with Amtrak; on the Indian-Pacific between Sydney and Perth; on British Rail from

baronial splendour of the Banff Springs Hotel has been a part of the Rocky Mountain scene since 1887, a massive stone structure of great halls, banquet rooms, spacious lounges, and 500 bedrooms.

The hotel also has an indoor swimming pool, but I opted for the much warmer mineral pools set in the open at the foot of Sulphur Mountain. The gondola lift is only a brief walk from the pool and I was later whisked quietly and effortlessly’ to the mountain’s 7500 ft summit in barely eight minutes.

The 360-degree panoramic view from the top is awe inspiring and even the township of Banff 2500 ft below seemed dwarfed into insignificance by the sheer might of the surrounding mountains.

There is a fully licensed restaurant at the summit but many visitors prefer picnicking out in the open, sharing their titbits with the tame deer and mountain sheep and the shyer, But captivating, little chipmunks. Like the “Indian chief" who poses there in full regalia for a fee, they seem to know when they are on to a good thing. We would have easily stayed longer in Banff, but Colleen Condon of Travel Alberta assured us that there were even greater sights and experiences waiting for us elsewhere in the province. In the morning we would drive north up the Icefields Parkway to Jasper. And we might, she said, even see a bear.

(To be continued.)