Home gardening Work for the month

Press, 2 September 1977, Page 7

Home gardening Work for the month

M.Lusty

J egetables One of the usual procedures at the beginning of a sowing season is to pull out the forgotten seed packets to see what is left for requirements so as to reduce fresh purchases. Seed gradually loses its viability with age, although some kinds last longer than others. The way in which the seed is stored will also affect the length of time that it remains viable. Some indication of seed viability may be obtained from the following list: onions, parsnips, salsify, sweet corn, two years; asparagus, beans, leeks, peas, three years; carrots, four years; cucurbits (cucumbers, marrows, squash), four to five years; brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, turnips) and tomato, five years. Of course, there are exceptions, one lot of tomato seeds, 14 years old, was sown and had an exceptionally high germination percentage. But generally it pays to discard seed of unknown vintage and questionable storage.

Seed sowing also raises the problem of how much space should be allottted to each kind of vegetable, and indeed to the crops themselves. In the first instance, family pre.erences and the size of the plot will greatly influence the decision. Ideally, successional sowing not only provides continuity of supply but also reduces waste and uses space most efficiently.

The whole concept of vegetable growing is changing, and closer planting is in vogue. This, of course, requires adequate cultural attention, including provision of plant food and pest and disease control.

Another problem which always occurs at this time of the year is the use of organic' matter. Fresh organic matter, including

animal manures, should not be applied to the soil immediately before planting. This rule applies even more strongly in the case of seed sowing. It can cause a temporary nitrogen deficiency, as it uses the available nitrate to aid in its own breakdown. Also, the release of gases can cause burning or scorching of foliage and even the collapse of seedlings. Another reason for the addition of well decomposed organic matter and its incorporation well in advance of sowing and planting is to minimise the chances of physiological upsets, such as forked roots.

Mature root crops which remain in the ground from previous sowings should be pulled now, as they will rapidly deteriorate with the beginning of secondary growth. Thev can be stored in sand or bags. Spring cabbage, lettuce and cauliflower will benefit greatly from a side dressing of ammonium sulphate or nitrate of soda. These acidic fertilisers can damage the foliage, and should be applied with care. Do not apply fertiliser to dry soil; preferably, lightly water in immediately after application.

Silver beet also responds to a side dressing from one of these fertilisers. This vegetable suffers very much from the ravages of hungry birds in some areas, and they can tear a plant, into shreds in a short time. A spray of thiram may keep them off.

Broad beans will begin to make rapid growth now. At this stage they can still become swamped by weeds, and eradication will pay dividends. It also pays to keep watch for any aphid colonies which can cause a reversal of development. Manazon or maldison should be throughly applied immediately any are noticed but not if the plants are in flower, as the spray can prove fatal to bees.

Many seedlings are raised in boxes under a protective cover, and even though conditions outside are warming up these little plants must be hardened off before being planted out. Even then they may suffer a setback if "the soil is too cold or they are roughly handled. Prewarming of the soil and initial protection in the plot can pay considerable dividends and the use of cloches, hot caps, or clear polythene drapes over wires is suggested to give young plants a good start in the open ground. September is usually a month when tomatoes are planted out in unheated glasshouses, but this is only feasible if preparations have been thorough and the soil is not too cold. Under such conditions it is better to defer planting, as plants are more likely to decline than develop.

The necessity to provide supplementary' nutrients for these plants must not be overlooked, and although phosphate and some nitrogen are usually provided, potash is often overlooked. An imbalance of this element is largely responsible for many physiological troubles of tomatores.

Yet another very important aspect of tomato growing under glass is the need to change the soil to a depth of 60cm periodically, or to sterilise it. The reason for this is that there are several soilborne diseases to which tomatoes are susceptible, and these tend to build up over the years with the continuous cropping. Sterilisation can be done by steam, formalin drench, or the application of a granular sterilant which contains dazomet.

Frost can severely damage emerging asparagus tips and potatoe sprouts. Therefore, these should be covered with straw, or given some other form of protection, such as earthing up. Seed of the following can be sown this month: Asparagus, beetroot, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, celeriac, endive, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, onion, parsley, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radish, rhubarb, salsify, scorzonera. silver beet, spinach, turnips. Egg plant (aubergine), peppers, cucurbits and tomatoes can be sown under glass.

Planting of asparagus can still be made while artichokes, cabbage cauliflower, chives, lettuce, onions spring onions and silver beet can also be set out. Fruit

Fruiting subjects are bursting into life once more, and while some, such as peach and Japanese plum, blossom before the leaves have opened the apple and quince are among those which come into leaf before the flowers appear. Once the flowering stage is reached insecticides must not be used until petal fall. The Apiaries Act has actually made spraying at this time an offence. This was done to protect bees, which are vital to the pollination and fertilisation not only of fruiting subjects but of many other plants.

Apple trees which have been badly attacked by woolly aphids in the past should be sprayed with lindane to overcome this problem, which can cause blind and eventually dead shoots over the entire tree if no action is taken against them. If you intend to do some grafting, wait until the sap is rising into the framework of the tree. This can be checked by carefully lifting the bark with a knife. The scion wood (the variety of varieties to be grafted on to the existing tree must, of course, be fully dormant) and for success with this venture there must be perfect cambial contact and all cut surfaces must be well sealed.

Weeds can be a problem among berry bushes and fruit trees alike, and not only look unsightly but can be hosts to pests.

Established fruit stock will tolerate many different types of weedkillers, of which paraquat, dalaponn simazine, casoron, and amitrole are examples. Any chemical should always be applied as directed on the container label. Druameiihih

Herbaceous and annual borders will need to be prepared now in readiness for planting. A good border involves and requires considerable work, but good planning, and thoroughness in planting and maintenance is always well rewarded by an eyecatching display. As herbaceous plants respond well to feeding a liberal application of organic matter is desirable. In planning the layout certain points should be observed.

Taller plants should be kept to the back or centre of the bed. Sufficient room should be left between plants to allow room to move about without causing damage, but not to the extent that the gaps are noticeable.

Stakes are best put in early so that typing can be done progressively. Foliage plants should not be overlooked, as they can provide excellent contrast. Before sowing seed mark off the areas for each kind and variety of plant. The following short list may provide a start for a summer bedding scheme: ageratum, alyssum, balsam, calendula, celosia. cineraria, delphinium, salvia, tropaeolum and verbena. The sowing and resowing of lawns can be got on with now, as can topdressing with a 3:1 mixture of sulphate of amm o n i a and superphosphate. The usual application rate is 34 g to the square metre.

Now is also a good time to treat lawns for moss and weeds. Great care is necessary in the preparation and application of the chemicals — such as Turfmaster and Mosskiller —used for this purpose.