Rivalry in high places

Press, 18 December 1976, Page 10

Rivalry in high places

The New Zealand Everest Expedition will not be alone on the mountain next year. A German expedition will be there climbing Lhotse, the second highest peak in the Everest massif.

Both expeditions will be climbing from the Western Cwra, hut the New Zealanders intend to arrive before the Germans and thereby limit the contact between the two expeditions as much as possible. The New Zealand expedition is the main one in the region, because it has permission to climb Everest. Under Nepalese regulations, all other expeditions to this area have to get permission for their

ventures from the main expedition. The original leader of the New Zealand party, Mr Arnold Heine, gave the Germans permission to use the Khumbu Icefall route into the Western Cwm. But the present leader, Mr Keith Woodford, has refused them permission to use the South Col route up Lhotse because the New Zealanders are using it to climb Mount Everest. The German leader, Mr Gerherd Schmatz, wrote to Mr Woodford suggesting that the two expeditions use the same route through the icefall. However, Mr Woodford declined, fearing that the identity of his small party would be lost if it started

climbing with another expedition. However, the New Zealanders are arriving at their base camp early and should be through the icefall before the Germans arrive.

The Base Camp and Camp One of the two parties will be in the same area, but beyond these the routes should diverge.

The Germans — the Schwabische Himalayan Expedition — because they can no longer use the South Col route, are going to tackle the 27,890 ft Lhotse by one of its faces. They have 12 climbers, and will use 25 Sherpas on the climb.

About two years ago Mr Schmatz visited New Zealand on a climbing holiday.