Vegetables—how, what and when to plant

Press, 15 September 1976, Page 12

Vegetables —how, what and when to plant

After all the work put in on getting the soil ready for successful vegetable growing, we come to planting and here it is impossible to over emphasise the need for good seeds. Gardeners are strongly advised to avoid low cost seeds as this can often be a false economy. Cheap seeds may or may not be good but considering how little the best seeds cost it is simply not worth any risk for the small amount saved.

There are many reasons why seeds fail, quite apart from any faults they themselves may have — sowing too deeply or not sufficiently covered; too much moisture or not enough, can all cause failure, apart from the possibilities of being taken by birds or insects.

Even after germination is still a critical time. A heavy storm or a scorching sun may ruin the seed beds and just one day’s neglect in watering or shading may prove fatal.

which should prove helpful.

Assuming all the necessary manures and fertilisers have been incorporated, the surface of the soil should be raked evenly and the plot given a thorough soaking — enough to saturate both the surface and the subsoil. Most will be dry enough within a couple of days to allow planting to begin.

A most important part of planting is the depth at which the seeds are placed. This, of course, differs slightly depending on what is going in but as a general rule it may be said that seeds should be covered with soil to a depth of not more than twice their own thickness.

It is also good practice to press two or three seeds into the soil at the same spot. — maintaining the recommended spacing on the seed packet — which will enable you to thin out later, leaving the stronger seedlings plenty of room for growth.

It goes without saying that the instructions on seed packets should be closely followed but here are a few extra tips

A loose soil is satisfactory for seed sowing but if transplanting seedlings it is advisable to have the soil firm.

Given the necessary care and attention, young seedlings generally come along pretty quickly and the next step is to ensure they are not growing too thickly or close together. Many gardeners, particularly new ones, seem to have an aversion to pulling out seedlings, but

it just has to be done to get the best results. The main factor which will always govern the success of early seed sowing is soil temperature.

It is of course possible to take various short cuts in getting early season vegetables under way by such methods as arranging rows at right angles to the mid-day sun; and efficiently using whatever sunlight there is by setting jam jars as individual hot houses for the seeds. Remember, unless soil temperatures are sufficiently high, summergrowing crops will fail to germinate. If there is any doubt at. all about the readiness of the soil, a simple guide is to check the weeds in the vegetable plot. Should you be able to identify* some of the more common summer weeds such as nightshade, fat hen or Prince of Wales Feather, then planting should be relatively safe, as these weeds will not germinate until the temperature is just right. It is impossible to be specific about exactly what to plant at an early stage in the season as clearly different climatic conditions govern all.

But those hardier types which may be sown in open ground include: asp a r a g u s , artichoke (globe), beet, cauliflower, cabbage, carrot, leek, onion, pea, potato, radish, rhubarb, spinach and turnip.