A ‘super casual’ collection

Press, Volume CXV, Issue 33938, 3 September 1975, Page 6

A ‘super casual’ collection

(By

LEONE STEWART)

A super casual collection, the Beath’s spring- summe showing was dubbed. And so it was—super, and casual too, in u way that is very much the spirit of fashion these days.

Shown on the first day of spring, the clothes had all the promise of a new season. If they are worn with the panache displayed by thei models, Christchurch i may see some sophisticated styles this summer.

That may just be the problem. New Zealanders equate casual with scruffy and seem to find it hard to acquire relaxed good looks. These are relaxed, unstructured clothes, designed for an active life. They are made for a busy woman who wants to look good although she does not have hours to worry over her wardrobe. Pricey they may be, but definitely not "just for best," destined to emerge only for big occasions.

Typical of the easy-does-it air ’ were the super casual looks from London — threepiece sets of mid-calf, moving skirt, sleeveless sweater top, and silky shirt. Even Paris is going casual, and doing it superbly well in an elegant sweater dress, the navy skirt; swinging from the hip, the white, ribbed bodice carrying a navy belt — knitted in. Subtle style And from New Zealand, expressing all the subtleness that is very much summer ’75, the most gentle of suits —a soft shirt top with selfties, over a skirt of (yes, they are back again} unpressed pleats. Both in super-subtle, honey-coloured, silky jersey. Some of the best, unaffected clothing around is sportswear. On Monday evening it was certainly done justice in the new, mid-calf skirts, paired with simple Tshirts (this season’s most sought-after top), with a pretty, sheer shirt as a coverup. This in khaki — now a number one couture colour — with the skirt styled wraparound and with big patch pockets. In khaki too came summer's peplum blouse, with an elastised waist and short, cuffed sleeves, looking fresh and free with its khaki, full 'and flowing skirt.

Along with some natty : denim, this was a super casual concept that ignores age limits and is kind to cheque books. So too were the wash and wear co-ordinates: classic jackets, skirts, and tops in [today’s pastels, ready to go [anywhere and look good in 'any company. Informal suits As always in this parade, there were summer suits. Very Canterbury, as always, but informal this summer, and by no means dull. Often short sleeved, frequently softly sashed, they came with skirts bias-cut or pleated. Naturally the safari suit scored as an ever-green — ever so smooth in off-white.

For sheer mastery of line, cut, and finish there was little to equal a Pierre Cardin original. The rust, sleeveless jacket — its square-cut armhole an especially clever touch — and mid-calf skirt with two, front pleats and one, centre-back pleat, fitted in all the right places and moved where it was meant to.

Although trousers did not feature in the parade, their established place in most women’s wardrobes was ackknowledged. The pants shown were cut straight, worn with an adaptation of the smock i jacket, or with a sheer shirt in peach and underwater blue, under a slinky pull-on in matching-print jersey. Adventurous On Monday evening there was a brave showing of the most adventurous lines of fashion today, adapted for the less radical without losing any of their appeal. It is to be hoped the company’s fashion director, Mr W. Lonie, will be rewarded for his buying courage by his clientele. Some of the best, all stylish yet undemanding: the over-dress, in khaki jersey, the button-through bodice softened by cunningly placed gathers, the tent dress, in sea green, with V-neck, long pointed collar, and the in-

spired touch — a wide, white belt cinching in the fullness; the most womenly

of smock dresses from Florence, a black and white print sheer, sleeves puffed to the elbow, fullness from gathered yokes, a sash to gently define the waist, or to be left at home if the wearer wants the dress to float freely. Dressee again It is nice to see dresses back. Of course, many women who always found dresses more flattering than assorted layers, never gave them up. The parade ran the gamut, from under-stated street dresses like the little navy number from Paris, its shell bodice intricately pin tucked, to a V-neck, bareshouldered dress and cropped jacket, from Milan, in lush, Mediterranean shades of fuchsia pink, jade, and sapphire blue lovely for our southern summer. Shirt dresses were very much in favour, but with less mantailoring than in past seasons and more easy shaping. Some fashions, unlike old soldiers, never fade away. They keep being revived, usually for good reason. Such is Chanel’s cardigan jacket. It was out in force during the parade, long, lean, and lovely over day dresses and suit skirts, a great cover-up for cool evenings. Evening wear Other classics soldiered on — the loose, stylish shift jacket, the shaped, tailored blazer. Long may they serve. Informality continued into evening wear, with that super soft jersey again, the co-ordinate theme of simple, sweater top and shirt or cardigan jacket over swishy, pleated or bias-cut skirts.

Some drama arrived on the scene in a scarlet jersey dress with its own, dashing, floor-length cape. Summer’s chemise appeared ankle length in an Italian model, a carefree print of bright green apples on a crisp, white background — the neckline was cut in a deep V, pleats swung from the hip, and over it all went a cardigan.