HARDY AMIES: ‘Jolt needed’ for N.Z. men

Press, Volume CXIV, Issue 33463, 19 February 1974, Page 6

HARDY AMIES: ‘Jolt needed’ for N.Z. men

(By LEONE STEWART) New Zealand men should be jolted into paying a little more attention to their appearance, says the British designer of international repute, Hardy Amies. And he believes it should be done by New Zealand women.

Hardy Amies has been bringing his sauve, very British fashion message for men to New Zealand for nine years. He has seen some changes. “I look at all these boys with their long hair . . . well, really, who would have thought it,” he said in Christchurch yesterday. Mr Amies presented his 1974 collection for men, decorated by selected items from his women’s collection shown in London in January, to the clothing trade last evening. Faster pace He now finds that some New Zealand customers for his Cambridge-made ranges—his shirts are made by Lichfield in Christchurch—want a faster fashion pace than he approves. Mr Amies is ever-mindfu) of his image. The direction of his design never varies from the good taste,, intelligence, and sensitivity to the male market that has made Hardy Amies, Ltd, a world success in men’s wear. His licensees in Canada, Australia, South Africa, the United States, Japan, and New Zealand have freedom to adapt his designs ito the local market, but he (does not want anyone going (off in the wrong direction.. He is delighted with the faithfulness of his New Zealand licensee. The men’s clothing being shown to the trade in New Zealand this -month is locally manufactured, incorporating Mr Arnie’s concepts, and his ideas for the future. Shorter jacket Audiences at Mr Arnie’s shows are attentive. He has been right before. The first to introduce the waisted suit jacket to New Zealand, he now sees a bright future for the shorter jacket, minus a vent, and with one. or at most, two buttons. Having won acceptance for 24in -trouser bottoms, and cuffs, ■even for the more conservative, he is now confidently -adding the small trouser pleats that are accepted by the fashion-conscious man (overseas.

Mr Amies has what he calls a correct and honest view of fashion — evolutionary rather than revolutionary. Each six-month seasonal change brings, he says, some slight changes that do not invalidate all that has gone before. The life of a man’s suit is, he says, five years at its longest. Three years is generous, and "if you want to be pernickety, two years.” The average man will have in his wardrobe, Mr Amies believes, a suit five years old, one three years old, and a new purchase. The secret of being suitably “trendy,’’ is to make the new suit the latest that can be bought. “Men should never be frightened of buying a new design, because they are going to anyway.” “Old look”

■ Mr Amies makes his fashion statements in a tone of cheerful reasonableness. He is careful not to be too categorical and thereby offend — a more mild-manner director of trends could not be met — but he is fairly firm about one thing. The classic, three-button business

The “athletic” look he is showing in his snappy, professional presentation for 1974, is, he believes, “just right for here." If his designs are any indication, fashion-conscious New Zealand men can give up their losing battle to look like elegant Italians and be themselves. Trouser pleats Pleats give the trousers — still cuffed — a little ease although they are still fitting over the hips. The shorter, ventless jacket has width in the shoulder. With emphasis on patch pockets rather than flaps, it has more the look of a sports coat, and could be worn as such. Sports shirts take on a new significance. Hardy Amies is giving week-end wear such a face-lift that the average boatie will not know himself. Any sporting Kiwi could look good, and also be relaxed in Amies cuffed shorts and blouson jackets. The latter, a more casual version of the battle-dress jacket, were some of the brightest ideas in the collection, and could not be more suited to “your marvellous outdoor life.”

Lunch on Britannia That is • something Mr Amies always enjoys when he is in New Zealand. Seemingly timeless, he is in fact in his 60s — tanned, fit, and slim. This year he spent several days sailing in the Bay of Islands, He was enthusiastic about the New Zealand Day celebrations he attended at Waitangi, and managed to fit in lunch on the Britannia. He is, of course, dressmaker to the Queen. The dress the Queen wore at Waitangi was a Hardy Amies.

When he was last in Christchurch in 1972, Mr Amies talked reassuringly of the acceptability (and necessity, in view of widening trousers) of raised heels for men’s shoes. In fashionable circles the Ijin to l|in heels he designs, and wears, indeed seem reasonable. Mr’Amies is still trying to find a footwear manufacturer in New Zealand "bright enough” to manufacture his shoes under licence. “We have had discussions with charming people, but that's all,” he said. “They tell me they have labour problems.” Men’s shoes He finds women’s fashion shoes right up to the minute. Finding suitable shoes to show with his men’s fashions was no easy task. New Zealand men are badly served, he says, on the shoe scene. Shoes for fiien are, he has found, either very dull and conservative, or over-decor-ated.

Mr Amies’s passion for perfection pays off. in his collection there are fine fabrics; smooth grey flannel, comfortable knit jersey that looks like fine worsted, crisp gaberdine, fine tweeds far removed from your hairy old sports jacket. Bold stitching defines 44in revers, and patch pockets. There are lots of checks, principally Prince of Wales with colour introduced in over-checks. Smart, textured polyester blazers in bold tones are worn with toning, subtly checked trousers. Mr Amies has a way of making the new look acceptable while allowing the designs in which his clients have grown comfortable to be phased out slowly and painlessly.

suit is a “really old look that nobody wants.”