Gardeners’ queries

Press, Volume CXII, Issue 33034, 29 September 1972, Page 14

Gardeners’ queries

I planted out lettuce plants between raspberry canes, went away on holiday and now I’ve only a few plants left. The remaining plants are badly plucked by sparrows. The birds also badly damaged the autumn - sown silverbeet but ignored the spinach in the next row. There are many “dust baths” in the garden, especially over the red beet and carrot rows. Could you please give me some ideas on trying to save these and future plantings? — J.H. (Rangiora). It is fairly usual to find birds feeding on spring plantings and sowings of vegetables (and other plants as well) possibly because in

the period between winter’s end and the commencement of spring there is a general shortage of normal sources of feed. Silver beet, in particular, is always subject to their attentions at this time of the year. However, I have found that they hardly touch the red strain. The fungicide thiram has acted as a deterrent and can be safely applied to all crops. The waiting period after application is seven days. Various bird scares can be tried such as suspended tin foil or a network of cotton. Dry loose soil always draws birds who enjoy a dust bath, irrespective of what lies beneath. By keeping the soil moist this can be avoided.

The accompanying specimen is from a 10-year-old manuka. I realise what the trouble is and have sprayed with malathion and linseed emulsions, and also with white oil. Can you see any sign that the condition is under control?— E.W. (Christchurch). It does seem as though your plant may be recovering. Infestation of the “manuka blight” appears to have been very severe and normally wffien it gets to such a stage plants do not survive. The sooty mould will disappear in time as the lack of “honey dew” excreted by the scales (and aphides) is its source of sustenance. The bush should be lightly trimmed all over, the sou well watered and a good handful of blood and bone applied in the vicinity of the root zone. Do not cultivate deeply as manukas are shallow-rooting plants.

Leaves of Telopea orcades are enclosed and I should be grateful to know the cause of the leaves dying and also what is the cure? It appears to me to be similar to the chlorosis which affects azaleas. —F.T. (Christchurch). Telopeas can be “difficult” sometimes and results are variable. The browning of the tips is possibly due to the effects of cold conditions. These plants prefer acid soil, preferably on the poor side, and respond to a good annual feeding with blood and bone. What ails my polyanthus? At this time of the year, when they should be at their best in bloom, a tiny white blight appears to rot the plants away. —“Garden Lover” (Fairlie). The only symptom noticeable on your plant samples were those associated with root rot. It is suggested that you investigate depth of planting, drainage and apply

a copper spray. However, if samples sent are fully representative of all plants it is doubtful whether much can be done for them at this stage.

Would you please tell me the right time to divide my kniphofia which has just finished blooming and has out grown the terrace it is on?—“Red hot poker” (Christchurch). Kniphofia should not be divided until they have been allowed to grow for several years in order that they may develop both a good root system and new shoots. When such is the case division of plants should be made in spring.

“Flowerless,” Lyttelton, may never have any success with Nerium splendens in these parts. They grow and flower vigorously in Napier but I’ve had no success with them in Richmond, Christchurch - . . However, in my garden I have excellent specimens of other Neriums which are more suited to our latitude, and flower profusely. Punetatum, single pale pink; Dr Golfin, single deep pink and Mrs Roeding, a very lovely double apricot pink with more slender and graceful foliage than the others. Further varieties worth trying are Prof. Martin, the deepest of the pinks, single, and Pauline Gregory, a bright single pink. — “Nerium,” (Christchurch). Thank you for your comments. In reply to “Flowerless,” I said that warmth and sunshine were imperative for good flowering of neriums, the reference being made as a general observation.

In answer to a question in “The Press’’ recently you said that you were not aware of any books on hybridising available to the gardening public. The following should be obtainable stilb (1) “Simple Hybridising for Beginners,” by Gourlav Thomas. (2) “Practical Plant Breeding” bv W. Lawrence (Allen and Unwin). The first was published in a Garden. Book Club Edition (Foyles) a few years ago. It is honed that the above information is of some assistance to you in vour good work in “The Press.” — J.G. (Christchurch).

Thank you for your Interest and information which should be of considerable assistance to the inquirer as both books are most helpful to beginners at hybridising.