The classical wine grapes are coming

Press, Volume CXI, Issue 32568, 30 March 1971, Page 10

The classical wine grapes are coming

Four thousand acres of grapes that fattened in the sun, four million gallons of wines fermenting in the vats —those are the figures to be rolled on the tongue of New Zealand wine-lovers now that the 71 vintage is over. This flood of wine puts us in prospect of soon drinking If gallons or 9 bottles of wine a head a year. Ten years ago per capita consumption was two bottles a year. •

There is no guarantee, of course, that New Zealanders will continue to absorb wine as fast as the fastest-growing industry in the country can produce it. Saturation point (so to speak) must be approaching and wine-makers themselves are freely predicting that this might be the year of overproduction. And, let’s face it. it would be cause for rejoicing, not regret, if some of the wine now maturing fails to find a buyer. Riding a seller’s market the unscrupulous have been concocting some pretty brews. Raisins, apples and other prohibited materials have been used. Inferior‘wines reeking of synthetic essences (no de-

The writer of this article, Dick Scott, is editor of the magazine, “Wine Review,” and author of “Winemakers of New Zealand.” The photographs published in the editorial part of this supplement, are also his.

terrent to some lolly-water loving Kiwis) have been widely promoted. False and misleading labelling is not uncommon. The shake-down that follows over production will be beneficial to consumer and honest winemaker alike. Fortunately for the former, the -any conscientious wine-, i makers in the country are | poised to battle for sales on i he basis of quality. We can I look forward to some interestins. even exciting wines over the next four years. Even more a touchstone of their intentions than the millions they have invested in

world-class cellers and equipment is the nature of the grapes the winemakers, have been planting. The seventies will be an era of the classicals. These are the great wine-grapes of Europe, the vinifera vines that have been proved over centuries to make the best quality wines. Much harder to grow, more subject to disease and shy bearing, they pay for the trouble, they cause in the fragrance, colour and full-rounded taste of their product. In an entirely new development over the last three or four years the best winemakers have been planting classicals in quantity. The day of the hardy, highyielding vigorous labrusca hybrids is coming to an end. The Department of Agriculture conducts a five-yearly census of grape plantings and the results of the 1970 survey are due out next June. They will show some surprising changes. While awaiting the computer to disgorge the details it is possible from simple observation to predict the main outlines: First, that much maligned but faithful work-horse, Albany Surprise, will have suffered almost total eclipse. Top place for acreage in the 1960 survey, second in 1965, this labrusca grape will now be hear the bottom of the list.

Second, there’s no doubt Riesling Sylvaner, the fine white wine-grape of Germany, will have been planted on an impressive scale. Seventh in popularity in 1960, fifth in 1965, it should be in the top three for 1970. Third, the sherry classic of Spain, the Palomino grape, is likely to have become the most widely planted vine in the country. (It was sixth in 1960, third in 1965.)

Finally, the versatile French hybrid Baco 22A, second in 1960, first jn 1965, will have held its position in the top three. Its suitability for brandy making as well as its reliability in producing sound commercial wine will have ensured its retention. The 1970 survey, in short, will show that two of the first three grapes in New Zealand are now vinifera varieties. There was not one vinifera in this group in 1960. Would any of those who are so fond of condemning the winegrowers as labrusca planters care to put any money up on a different prophecy? In addition to these main plantings winemakers both large and small have been putting in respectable acreages of other classics. The noble grapes of France, the red Cabernet Sauvigon and the white Pinot Chardonnay, are coming into production. White Hermitage, Roter Traminer and Gamay Blanc are three other names beginning to appear on the odd label. Soon the trickle of private bin lines available only to favoured customers will become a flow to all. But one last word: the best wines will never be in overproduction. Competition will be in quality not price. In fact, for the very best, we can expect to pay considerably more.