Little bit of France in the Pacific

Press, Volume CXI, Issue 32566, 27 March 1971, Page 13

Little bit of France in the Pacific

(By

KATHLEEN HANCOCK)

If you want to get away from everyday life, to shed that old image, to taste new ideas as well as new foods, New Caledonia is still the answer. It’s a French set-up in a tropical setting and wonder of wonders, even in the midst of a nickel boom, the place has retained its special charm.

The pace is slow, the people amiable. Haste is a bad word and the food is fabulous.

In spite of the climate of boom in New Caledonia, it’s still possible to spend a lazy, relaxed holiday on this fragment of France in the Pacific without too much strain on the pocket Surprisingly, Noumea’s most elegant hotel will be one of your best bets. The lovely Chateau Royal, built right on the sweep of Anse Vata beach, caters for modest budgets as well as the demands of the rich. You can get a comfortable room and bath in the Banyan Court for $10.50 or so, with the best continental breakfast in Noumea for another dollar. Those croissants, those brioches! That New Caledonian cafe au lait. And a huge glass of fruit juice—undiluted, what’s more. You don’t need to spend vast sums of money to amuse yourself in Noumea. The beaches are beautiful—and free. Dr Catala’s world famous aquarium is like no other you’ll have ever seen. A modest sum allows you to enter a strange and beautiful underwater world that will grip you for hours. Me, I have to be dragged away from the fishy and coralline wonders that are displayed there with such taste and imagination. The big Olympic size swimming pool behind the Chateau Royal is open every day, and fresh water fans will pay 22 cents to use it 20 cents a ride You can get on one of the little blue minibuses that ply ail day and most of the night and travel with the citizenry of this lazy tropical town for as long as you like for 20 cents. The people themselves are a fascinating melange of a dozen different races. No colour • bar mars the friendly atmosphere of this multi-racial island. Melanesian and French, Tahitian and Vietnamese, Martiniquais and Indonesian, Madagascan, Arab

and Somali, eat drink and play together. For the female of the species, window shopping in Noumea is fascinating, if frustrating when you have to count your pennies. The small boutiques display enticing French clothes, enchanting underwear, elegant accessories. One look at the local jewellers’ shops underlines the anfount of money that circulates in this nickel rich island. But shop for shoes—they’re different, the quality’s first rate and they’re a good buy in anyone’s money. And don’t pass by Prixunic—Noumea’s superstore. Underwear here the bras are beautiful and fit like a second skin. And separates, too—ltalian knits, • French skirts. Down at the toiletry counter, side curls, leather bands for pony tails, chic cosmetic bags. Popular place On week-ends sturdy Melanesian women provide a free show with their cricket matches at the square near the gendarmerie. Citizens of every race and colour play petanque under the spreading flamboyants in the Place des Cocotiers. Eating will be expensive at night, but lunch with a warm baton of French bread, a “tranche” of Valmeuse cheese and a big bottle of good Spanish red at 33 cents will more than even things up. And you can dance all night in the city’s boites for the price of a couple of drinks.

But a word of warning. If you want to sample the delights of a holiday on “the island of light,” plan well ahead. Bookings are heavy, rooms haven’t multiplied fast enough to keep up with demand. Transpac Voyages do a great job here—they’ll get you a bed, and organise your outings, answer your questions and generally hold your hand. As an offshoot of the excellent local airline, Air Caledonie, they’ll even send you to the lovely outer islands for a few days, if your budget will stretch that far. Given the recipe above, it probably will.