Beware fashion of forties

Press, Volume CXI, Issue 32561, 22 March 1971, Page 7

Beware fashion of forties

Norman Hartnell) If you are old enough to remember wearing those padded shoulders, wedge heels, and other extreme fashions of the 19405, the sad truth is that, despite what Paris might say, you are probably too old to wear them again. Yet on the young, the more extreme clothes of the forties can look glamorous.

Until now, it has been fashionable to deride the ‘forties as years when fashion was at its lowest ebb, but personally I have never shared this view. I did not like utility suits, thick-heeled shoes with ankle straps, and padded-shoulder suits, but I have always thought longer, flared skirts more flattering than minis, and long jackets good for plump hips. But we can all take a lesson from the good things of the 'forties, now that French designers want the Hollywood mood back. FADED PHOTOS I used to say that under every war-time utility overall beat a strong feminine heart Hidden under factory headscarves were masses of curls—far prettier than lots of today’s shaven heads. An important thing to remember about wearing 'forties clothes is that accessories make or break a look, and today so many accessories exist, that you have no excuse for unpacking those faded and ghastly accessories (hats, handbags and shoes) from 30 years ago. I myself have been digging out sketches I made about 1945 and re-using some of the best ideas. Why don’t you think about adopting some of the best ideas from the ’forties and teaming them with 1971 fashions. To start with, use a redder rlipstick, but do avoid the

"strawberry jam” look of those Hollywood movies. Do not have your hair permed at the ends, but consider longer hair, even if it means using false pieces. Wear a turban. Not so much the Carmen Miranda style, topped with fruit, but like Deanna Durban’s sleek and black ones. BLACK SATIN Wear a dirndl (that means gathered) skirt. It is flattering for "skinnies,” and hides bulky waists for “fatties.” Wear an organza dress (much

as Dorothy Lamour did for Bing Crosby), in flower! prints. For evening, copy Rita Hayworth. Remember those black satin dresses that seemed moulded to her body? Black sequinned jackets like mum used to wear top such dresses very nicely. Or you can wear a see-through tunic top. If you feel you want to look like Betty Grable, you can wear a sequinned brassiere and “hot pants” under see-through cardigans or shifts. Yves St Laurent, Dior, and, Jean Patou are all houses backing the 'forties look in the five months left before ' the next collections. Marc Bohan at Dior, has his 1 clients in Eighth Army ! shorts, covered by white greatcoats but he is a braver 1 man than I am. My favourite film star of ' the 'forties was, perhaps, > Joan Crawford. I remember ' her suits in navy stripes, with ■ pristine-white shirt collars ’ worn outside, to emphasise ' the already wide shoulders. EXTENDED YOKES i Personally, I hate padding in shoulders, but extended ; yokes give the same effect : much more attractively. Puff ! sleeves—short or long—are i very youthful and pretty. > Backless halter-tops wom : with black flared shorts i may make you shudder your way through your faded •beach photos, but they are i ideal for sunny days.