NORMAN HARTNELL SAYS; Don’t put your daughter in a rage

Press, Volume CX, Issue 32474, 8 December 1970, Page 6

NORMAN HARTNELL SAYS; Don’t put your daughter in a rage

From 12 to 15 is fashion’s most difficult age—and nothing is more calculated to cause a family row than a mother refusing to let her “sub-teen” grow up.

The 13-year-old daughter of a friend of mine lives in trouser suits, plasters her bedroom walls with pop-group pictures, and would seem to be totally unable to say anything other than: “What do you think of the No. 1 in the charts this week?” Yet whether she realises it or not—and I think she’s beginning to—this girl, and the thousands like her, are becoming a major fashion force.

“Sub-teen*,” a* th* American* call them, are a group on their own. And If it Is a difficult age for worried parent*, it I* an aven more baffling one for clothe* designer*. What should they wear? On the face of it, there would seem to be no problem since today’s fashion is neither “young” nor “old,” and young girls can just take a size 10 at mother's dress shop. But rather than disposing of the problem, till* often makes it worse. For so many mothers insist that their “sub-teen” daughter wean little girl*' dresses and act their age. ADVICE TO MOTHERS My advice to mother* faced with thl* problem is simply this: do not force your daughter into little girl dresses for parties. Give ner a trouser suit There is nothing sexy or immodest about that, is there, nor even too grown-up? Trouser suits are eminently sensible for youngsters. In fact I cannot think of a time in fashion when so

many adult clothes have been ideal for young teen-ager*. Trouaer suits, maxi coats, midi dresses, knickerbockers, minis, scarves, Levis—we are dressing women like them. Today, “sub-teens” want plain clothe* in bright colours, and washable synthetic fabric*. And let us face the fact that some of today’s clothe* an a bit too young for a mother. Name me a woman more than 30 who is flattered by long hair and ribbons, or who looks better in a mini than her daughter does. Minis, trouser suits, knee high socks, patterned tight*, elongated sweater dresses—these all look fine on girls of 12 to 15—without being too sophisticated. So take your daughter to your favourite fashion store and give her free rein. Check over the sort of thing she likes, and, if it fits her, you will probably find it also suits fierwmd does not quarrel with your views either. OWN DEPARTMENT Never take your young daughter to a children's department. Thank goodness, most stores have dropped “juvenile” from floor names, but why do not they intro-

duce Mademoiselle or Miss departments? Until they do, the ordinary woman’s department is fine, and if she is too short, take her to the women's sft 2in department. In the United States, girls of under 13 automatically shop in their own “sub-teen” fashion departments, where they buy the kind of gear they want—pinafores, jerkins, tunics, fringed-suede clothes, semi-fitted dresses and coats, maxi clothes, trouser suits, and so on. It is high time this sort of thing was international. Until it is, here is another helpful rule to follow. Girls like shopping in boys’ departments. It your girl is a tomboy, let her wear her brother's brand of turtle sweaters, jeans, hipsters, shirts, and even sneakers.

A “sub-teen” shop in London’s Carnaby Street opened years ago because it felt twelves to fifteens were neglected. Today they sell clothes like hot cakes—end small-sized mothers shop at their rail, too. Most girls of 12 to 15 have the basic height and shape they will have at 21. Often all you need to do is take up the hem—and if midis catch on among the schoolgirls, you will not even have to do that. LEATHER TRENDY Have you noticed how trendy leather is becoming? I have always said leather is best on cows or armchairs—and I still do not particularly like leather, when we are talking fashion. However, if you cannot lick ’em, join ’em, has always been my motto. I have started making (though I say it myself) some rather nice leather clothes. A pale, creamy, softsuede knickerbocker suit is my present favourite. But certain things, like wallets and waistcoats, belts and bags, moccasins and fringes for belts or bags, are easy to make, expensive to buy, and you can do it yourself quite easily.

For example, you can buy for the price of a square meal all you need to make leather tooled purses, wallets, handbags, belts, buttons, leather jewellery, or fringed jackets (so fashionable now).

Surounded by fascinating snippets of leather—often sent free with the catalogues —you can decide whether to use crop, or snake (very trendy), patent of calf, pigskin or suede. A beginners’ kit includes all manner of punches, knives and other gadgetry. You can buy your skin in 4ft pieces and you will get quite a lot of leather goods from one skin. A girl I know went to evening leather-working classes at a local technical college. Now her own wardrobe is looking well, and she is now very busy making all her Christmas presents. The photographs above shows two styles which Norman Hartnell approves for teen-age girls—jerkin worn over jerseys, and the latest, gay ponchos.

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